A little help with a shopping list....

[Yorkshirebloke]

Afternoon all.
So I've been collecting a bit of a shopping list for the new central heating install over the last month, and if you'd be so good, can you see anything obvious I've missed out?

Intergas eco rf24 boiler
Joule twin coil 250l unvented tank (titanium immersion)
2 Honeywell 2 port valves
Eco home kit and additional hot water kit
Magnaclean 2 and MC1
Grundfos potable recirculation pump
Rads and TRV/LS

Owt else?

Alex

 

[bernardgreen]

A competant installer

 

[Hot&Cold]

A competant installer

Bernard,its competent

you still drinking thatch infused tank water

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

When I order the stuff, Richard at evohome is putting me onto a G3 cert installer that knows intergas boilers and evohome set ups.
However, I can do a ton of the grunt work myself as I know where most of the new bathroom bits are going etc, and I'll be using buteline piping throughout the house until it reaches the boiler/tank as they are side by side where I'll leave the installer to connect it all together. The boiler and tank are going to be mounted in the garage so I can also connect the pipe runs to a compressor to pressure test them in advance, saving the plumber time and subsequently me money.

 

[oldbuffer]

Air pressure testing is extremely dangerous. Air is compressed in the system and acquires a lot of potential energy. If a fitting gives way it can fly off the pipework like a bullet, and do severe damage to anyone who gets in the way. If you must air test then:

1. Maximum of 1/2 bar pressure.
2. No one in the building or near any of the pipework / fittings.

Much better to test with water, which is incompressible to all intents and purposes.

 

[muggles]

You shouldn't need any two port valves if you're going for a full EvoHome setup with TRV heads - just a three port valve to divert between hot water and central heating.

An Intergas cylinder sensor would also help, a fitting kit (go for Richard's 18 litre kit if you have space) and a flue. MC3 system cleanser will be needed in addition to your MC1 (be prepared to buy two of each if it's a large system).

 

[Gasguru]

Rad lockshields to BS2767 Part 10....anything less and they're junk and will leak. Be aware that many merchants will flog you carp valves to make more profit.

Since you're splahing out then a couple of pressure gauges each side of the cylinder pressure reducing valve will make future problems easy to diagnose (glycerin filled is my preference).

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

You shouldn't need any two port valves if you're going for a full EvoHome setup with TRV heads - just a three port valve to divert between hot water and central heating.

An Intergas cylinder sensor would also help, a fitting kit (go for Richard's 18 litre kit if you have space) and a flue. MC3 system cleanser will be needed in addition to your MC1 (be prepared to buy two of each if it's a large system).

I spoke to the intergas shop the other day and I think we decided on the fitting kit with the rear jig and the expansion tank inside it, unless you can advise of something else?
As for the MC3, I'll get some.

So with regards to the 2 port/3 port set up, a little way down the line I'll be adding in some under floor heating. From what I'd read it was looking like an s plan set up with 2 x 2 port valves was going to be the way forward. Should I scrap that and stick to just a 3 port valve?

I'll go do some reading on the cylinder sensor, but would that be as well as the evohome hot water kit or instead of?

Alex

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Rad lockshields to BS2767 Part 10....anything less and they're junk and will leak. Be aware that many merchants will flog you carp valves to make more profit.

Since you're splahing out then a couple of pressure gauges each side of the cylinder pressure reducing valve will make future problems easy to diagnose (glycerin filled is my preference).

Haha yeah I wasn't even going to risk cheap stuff, the rads are over a grand so no point then skimping on the valves..... I was plumping for the Honeywell Valencia packs unless you know of better?

As for the gauges, that sounds interesting. Never seen any set up with gauges like that, but if it makes life easier for me/the plumber further down the line I'll look onto it.
Is there some you have fitted before you could perhaps link me too?
Cheers pal
Alex

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Air pressure testing is extremely dangerous. Air is compressed in the system and acquires a lot of potential energy. If a fitting gives way it can fly off the pipework like a bullet, and do severe damage to anyone who gets in the way. If you must air test then:

1. Maximum of 1/2 bar pressure.
2. No one in the building or near any of the pipework / fittings.

Much better to test with water, which is incompressible to all intents and purposes.

Thanks for the advice.
I'll be testing at 4 bar. If it holds at 4 bar the central heating system should be under that and then *hopefully* not leak haha.
Part of the reason I'm looking to use the buteline stuff is because it actually is easier for the DIY installer but at the same time is stronger than the push fit stuff. I saw a video of it holding pressure right up to 78 bar (albeit on a small section of tube) but still, that's pretty impressive. I'm tempted to run another couple of air lines in the workshop using it
Alex

 

[Nozzle]

Drain off points and vents - highest point and near the suction of the pump.

Nozzle

 

[oldbuffer]

The point isn't what pressure it will hold, the point is what happens if a fitting blows off, perhaps because it hasn't been put on properly. There's a lot of potential energy in a systems worth of pipes and radiators at 4 bar.

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Drain off points and vents - highest point and near the suction of the pump.

Nozzle

Yeah the vents look a good idea. I presume they get mounted on the furthest part of the system away from the pump?
Drain off valves I'll pick up some as well. Obviously to go on the lowest part, but should I put any more in anywhere?

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Rad lockshields to BS2767 Part 10....anything less and they're junk and will leak. Be aware that many merchants will flog you carp valves to make more profit.

Since you're splahing out then a couple of pressure gauges each side of the cylinder pressure reducing valve will make future problems easy to diagnose (glycerin filled is my preference).

Had a look at the gauges, cheap as chips so no probs adding them. But how do they get mounted into the valve or do you just for them after and before it?

 

[muggles]

I spoke to the intergas shop the other day and I think we decided on the fitting kit with the rear jig and the expansion tank inside it, unless you can advise of something else?
As for the MC3, I'll get some.

So with regards to the 2 port/3 port set up, a little way down the line I'll be adding in some under floor heating. From what I'd read it was looking like an s plan set up with 2 x 2 port valves was going to be the way forward. Should I scrap that and stick to just a 3 port valve?

I'll go do some reading on the cylinder sensor, but would that be as well as the evohome hot water kit or instead of?

Alex

Yes just stick with the single 3-port, everything else is dealt with via EvoHome. The cylinder sensor would be in addition to the hot water kit.

You'll also want a Spirovent from Richard, and a filling loop with built in pressure gauge.

On the pressure testing front, Oldbuffer is correct - air contains a lot of energy and a fitting blowing off could travel a long way. 4 bar is five times the pressure (and therefore energy) generated by an air rifle, to give you some perspective.

Honeywell Valencia valve packs are a perfect match for EvoHome