ACL Lifestyle valve

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Ferroli Sigma gas boiler
ACL Lifestyle 679H340-30L0 3 port
Horstmann ChannelPlus H27XL Series 2 programmer
Satchwell (Sunvic) room thermostat
CWS tank and header tank with bases at same level

I am a novice at HW and CH but learning a lot thanks to this forum. Have searched all the threads to do with the Lifestyle valve but could someone tell me the purpose of the black plastic tab at the top of the unit. My unit is installed upside down on a vertical pipe but close to the floor and I can’t see anything much. Sometimes this tab is pulled tight against the unit and other times it hangs down a bit and is loose.
The HW is ok but the CH occasionally either doesn’t come on when it should or else comes on when not demanded. Usually happens after CH has not been needed for a period. Boiler, programmer and thermostat are working ok so I’m thinking it must be the valve at fault.
Thanks in advance for any info.
 
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the purpose of the black plastic tab at the top of the unit.
so the valve can be selected to mid position when filling or draining system

My unit is installed upside down on a vertical pipe but close to the floor
not ideal should be vertical or horizontal
upside down can put strain on the shaft and also if it leaks it will leak onto the electrics in the actuator.


Sometimes this tab is pulled tight against the unit and other times it hangs down a bit and is loose.
depends what positon the valve is in hw will be tight and ch it will be loose

The HW is ok but the CH occasionally either doesn’t come on when it should or else comes on when not demanded. Usually happens after CH has not been needed for a period. Boiler, programmer and thermostat are working ok so I’m thinking it must be the valve at fault.
Thanks in advance for any info.

probably a sticky shaft etc not opening fully and activating the micro switch.
 
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Thanks for the very detailed reply. Seems to confirm what I suspected. As and when the valve becomes a real pain I'll get a replacement and make sure it's installed the right way. :)
 
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Rizz said:
My unit is installed upside down on a vertical pipe but close to the floor
not ideal should be vertical or horizontal. upside down can put strain on the shaft and also if it leaks it will leak onto the electrics in the actuator.
I think you are misreading what the OP said. The pipe is vertical, so there is no possibility of the valve electrics getting wet.

The valve is upside down in the sense that the lever is on the underside, so not easy to get to. This will be due to the direction of flow through the valve, so there's not much you can do about it - unless you modify the pipework.
 
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Yes thanks D-hailsham that's right. The electrics are not underneath but the black tab is, and close to the floor so I can't really get to it or see it properly. Luckily there are isolating valves all around the unit so I'm thinking that I can replace it without draining the system. Would you agree with that?
Many thanks.
 
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And just realised something important you said, that the flow must be in one direction only. So I'll install the replacement in the same orientation in all respects. Would not want to play around with the pipework anyway. Beyond my abilities.
Thanks.
 
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Yes, if you have isolation valves on all 3 pipes, should be really easy. That is unless they are wheel-head gate valves, which very often seize/break and are the work of the devil.

However, you may be lucky. Sounds like your system was installed with easy maintenance in mind.
 
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They are wheel head gate valves but I tried them out earlier today and they all travel freely. I expect they will drip a bit as I understand but that's a small price to pay. Thanks for reassurance that I don't need a system drain down.
 
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If they drip, sometimes tightening the gland nut a bit will help. Don't tighten too much, or you won't be able to turn the wheel.

Good luck!
 
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Good tip on the gland nuts. Maybe like the outside tap for the garden hose that you can nip up a bit when it drips. :)
 
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And just realised something important you said, that the flow must be in one direction only. So I'll install the replacement in the same orientation in all respects. Would not want to play around with the pipework anyway. Beyond my abilities.
The valve ports will probably be labelled on the side of the brass pipes - A at one end and B at the other. Just make sure the new valve is the same way round. If you have a three port valve (pipes are in a T formation), the A port should go to the heating and the B port to the HW cylinder.
 
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Thanks, that really nails it now hopefully. Been looking online at replacements and apart from being renamed Drayton they seem to be exactly the same so should be easy. I'll bear in mind what you said about the A and B.
:)
 
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Rizz said:
My unit is installed upside down on a vertical pipe but close to the floor
not ideal should be vertical or horizontal. upside down can put strain on the shaft and also if it leaks it will leak onto the electrics in the actuator.
I think you are misreading what the OP said. The pipe is vertical, so there is no possibility of the valve electrics getting wet.

The valve is upside down in the sense that the lever is on the underside, so not easy to get to.



not being a mystic meg i can't guess from here.
i read what he's wrote installed upside down
upside down to me is not on it's side. :rolleyes:


Remember next time i must be a mind reader to.
 
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not being a mystic meg i can't guess from here.
i read what he's wrote installed upside down
upside down to me is not on it's side.

Remember next time i must be a mind reader to.
You didn't have to be a mind reader; you just had to read everything the OP said, not stop half way through the sentence. :rolleyes:

Rizz said:
My unit is installed upside down on a vertical pipe but close to the floor
.
 

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