Hi everyone,currently my downstairs hallway does not get warm at all I have a double rad in there with no options to add another one ( there are 6 doorways) the rest of the house heats up fine..I have the thermostat which is in the hallway generally on 20 to 21...turning it up makes no difference as the hallway does not get warmer (but the rest of the house does ..) now,could I get that thermostat disconnected and then have another connected to the boiler which could then be remotely controlled ie something like the... Honeywell DT4R ...? ...I hope you understand my question...thank you.
Add another Thermostat?
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Adding a different thermostat won’t make a difference, you need to determine why the radiator doesn’t heat up. Have you checked the radiator valve is open, the position of the lockshield valve, are there any pipe blockages.
Hi,you misunderstand.. ALL the radiators heat fine..including the one in the hallway, if you read my post again it explains what I am trying to do ( I'm not trying to heat the hallway) .
You could wire in the Honeywell DT4R where the existing thermostat is. Alternatively, you could locate the other end of the thermostat cables, disconnect them to make the hallway safe, then wire it in there
I would wire it in where the existing thermostat is, at least in the first instance as it’s easy to go back if there’s a problem
Brian
I would wire it in where the existing thermostat is, at least in the first instance as it’s easy to go back if there’s a problem
Brian
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Thanks but as the Hallway ( where existing thermostat is) Never gets warm even if I turn thermostat up to 30ish obviously the rest of the house gets really hot BUT the hallway is still pretty cold...so I want to bypass the thermostat in the hall ( as that is governing the tempreture of the house) and control the possible New thermostat remotely..is my idea possible using the using the.. Honeywell DT 4R ..?
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Could you replace it with a bigger radiator. Have you compared the heat output of the radiator with the heat loss of the hall.
That Honeywell thermostat comes in two parts:
One box goes on the wall and actually does the switching
The other box detects the room temperature and sends commands to the first part wirelessly. This runs on batteries and you can put it wherever you like; somewhere in the living room would be a good idea
Read this:
Brian
One box goes on the wall and actually does the switching
The other box detects the room temperature and sends commands to the first part wirelessly. This runs on batteries and you can put it wherever you like; somewhere in the living room would be a good idea
Read this:
Brian
Is it possible there won't be enough wires? I get confused by the 2 wire/3 wire thing. I don't think the OP has specified which thermostat he currently has.
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For other rooms to get too hot, either the TRV is missing or not set up correctly. Having the wall thermostat in coolest room is correct.
I must admit had same problem with late mothers house, and setting up the TRV and lock shield valve was not easy.
The problem is the TRV marked *123456 not degrees C, once I fitted electronic TRV heads marked in deg C, then only had one variable the lock shield valve, so much easier to set.
I must admit had same problem with late mothers house, and setting up the TRV and lock shield valve was not easy.
The problem is the TRV marked *123456 not degrees C, once I fitted electronic TRV heads marked in deg C, then only had one variable the lock shield valve, so much easier to set.
@ericmark is spot on. The thermostat should be in the last room to warm up, the other rooms then don't overheat because their TRV's shut them down before they do. If you don't have TRV's fitted to the radiators in all of the other rooms except the hallway, fitting them would be the solution. So I recon your room thermostat is currently in the best place.
As the room thermostat is measuring the temperature of the room in which it is located, you could move it to one of the warmer areas, so that the heating is turned off earlier, but that would mean that the hallway would go off as well, meaning it would be even colder than it is now. However relocating a thermostat is tricky, here are some tips:
Tips for Room Thermostat Location:
The room thermostat should be in a room that is not effected by other sources of heat such as an open fire, cooking equipment, or direct sunlight etc. It should not be somewhere drafty or too close to a window, especially if it's one that is opened in the winter.
Secondly it should be in a cool room, ideally the last room in the house to warm up. That way, the other rooms will be warm enough, (but not overheated because of their TRV’s) before the room thermostat switches the entire heating system off. To achieve this, it may involve downsizing the radiator in the actual room where the thermostat is located.
The radiator in the room with the thermostat installed should not have a TRV fitted. Otherwise the TRV can interfere with the correct operation of the room thermostat.
The thermostat should be mounted about 1.5 metres from the floor, and not close to, or above a radiator.
Preferably it should not be on an outside wall, (although if you have well insulated walls, this is not quite so crucial.)
It should be in an area where air can circulate easily, not in a corner, or hidden behind curtains, or furniture.
As the room thermostat is measuring the temperature of the room in which it is located, you could move it to one of the warmer areas, so that the heating is turned off earlier, but that would mean that the hallway would go off as well, meaning it would be even colder than it is now. However relocating a thermostat is tricky, here are some tips:
Tips for Room Thermostat Location:
The room thermostat should be in a room that is not effected by other sources of heat such as an open fire, cooking equipment, or direct sunlight etc. It should not be somewhere drafty or too close to a window, especially if it's one that is opened in the winter.
Secondly it should be in a cool room, ideally the last room in the house to warm up. That way, the other rooms will be warm enough, (but not overheated because of their TRV’s) before the room thermostat switches the entire heating system off. To achieve this, it may involve downsizing the radiator in the actual room where the thermostat is located.
The radiator in the room with the thermostat installed should not have a TRV fitted. Otherwise the TRV can interfere with the correct operation of the room thermostat.
The thermostat should be mounted about 1.5 metres from the floor, and not close to, or above a radiator.
Preferably it should not be on an outside wall, (although if you have well insulated walls, this is not quite so crucial.)
It should be in an area where air can circulate easily, not in a corner, or hidden behind curtains, or furniture.
Are you saying that you are actually happy with the coolish temperature in the hall? And that you are purely wanting the thermostat to more effectively control the temperature in the rest of the house? If so, you need to turn the dial down, rather than up, so that the thermostat comes within the control range of the hall temperature. If the thermostat in the hall is set to 15C, and that gives you the temperature you want in the rest of the house, that is fine.
How warm does the hall get ?
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Most of what @stem says is correct. As he says it should not be in a room where a window to outside is opened, this also of course includes a door to outside.
However in the real world often there is no such room.
So a get around is to fit a TRV in the room with wall thermostat.
It does need careful setting, idea is door opened, and TRV is fully open, and wall thermostat turns one, starting to quickly reheat room (hall) but before the wall thermostat turns off, the TRV starts to close, so delaying when boiler turns off. So allowing other rooms to heat.
In other rooms too, careful setting required, this is to stop over shooting. The TRV even the electronic type with motors can take 4 minutes to fully open, fully close, and return to set point. And hot water can fill the radiator unchecked in under 4 minutes.
So if the lock shield not set, rooms can over shoot, as radiator does not cool fast enough.
With an electronic TRV one looks at the reported room temp, if it exceeds the temp set, close the lock shield a little.
Where the problem lies, is with mechanical TRV,s where it is not set to say 20 degs C but to number 3, so you don't know if TRV or lock shield valve needs tweaking.
I simply used one electronic and moved it radiator to radiator. There is a method measuring in and out temperature, but it needs a differential thermometer and likely an electronic head is cheaper.
However in the real world often there is no such room.
So a get around is to fit a TRV in the room with wall thermostat.
It does need careful setting, idea is door opened, and TRV is fully open, and wall thermostat turns one, starting to quickly reheat room (hall) but before the wall thermostat turns off, the TRV starts to close, so delaying when boiler turns off. So allowing other rooms to heat.
In other rooms too, careful setting required, this is to stop over shooting. The TRV even the electronic type with motors can take 4 minutes to fully open, fully close, and return to set point. And hot water can fill the radiator unchecked in under 4 minutes.
So if the lock shield not set, rooms can over shoot, as radiator does not cool fast enough.
With an electronic TRV one looks at the reported room temp, if it exceeds the temp set, close the lock shield a little.
Where the problem lies, is with mechanical TRV,s where it is not set to say 20 degs C but to number 3, so you don't know if TRV or lock shield valve needs tweaking.
I simply used one electronic and moved it radiator to radiator. There is a method measuring in and out temperature, but it needs a differential thermometer and likely an electronic head is cheaper.
Hi all,I will try to answer a few questions. ..the hallway does not get warm/hot at all...I would guess the temperature is only around 12 to 15 degrees ( it doesn't get really cold but what you would call ' Fresh/Chilly....because of the way the Hallway is I cannot get another or bigger radiator in there it's just not possible...and as I know nothing about Central heating/Boilers or Radiators I think that as the Hallway NEVER reaches the setting on the Thermostat(approx 20 or 21degrees setting) then it will never stop the boiler switching off so it just keeps going.
The first thing to try would be turning the hall thermostat down so that it starts controlling the boiler. At what temperature does it turn the boiler off? What sort of thermostat is it? Does it have a display or just a dial?
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