Addition of Plinth Heater

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As part of the kitchen re-fit I am replacing a centrally-heated radiator with a plinth heater. This is also plumbed in (wet, I think they call it) but has a small electric motor to force the heat out. The motor is not permanently on, it is controlled by the built-in thermostat and will be turned off anyway when not required.

The kitchen sockets are part of the downstairs ring-main, as built in 1987. I know kitchen's should have their own circuit but this is probably beyond what I can do, principally because of getting the cable back to the fuse box.

Since I am otherwise not adding load in the kitchen (just moving it round) and this thing is not too heavy on the juice (don't know exactly what the power consumption is but the plumber said it only uses a 5 Amp fuse), am I barking to just add this to the existing circuit?

Thanks,

Robert
 
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no, I think it would be quite normal to add this to existing supply. In fact you could simply put a plug on it and plug it in.
 
mrscalex,

Can I ask you where you got your plinth heater from, I've been looking for one for ages but have yet to find one.

Many thanks in advance

Sean
 
If its a Myson one it has its own switch to control the fan speeds that needs fitting into a single box so I don't think a plug will suit. Use a FCU in a twin box together with the switch.

SeanD
Myson make these and they are available from most good plumbers merchants, Plumb Center do them and they are nationwide. You can also get fully electric ones, try TLC.

Jason
 
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The plumber is supplying the heater so I'll let you know what make it is when I find out myself. He lead me to believe it just required a socket and plug connection but I'll check before I cable it.
 
I just checked with the plumber. It is indeed a Myson but he assures me that it requires nothing more than regular electrical outlets and I trust this information to be reliable as he says he regularly fits them with the most recent one being just last week.

I am using a neon grid switch module marked 'Heater' as the isolator and the heater will be wired via a regular fused (3 Amp) 3-pin plug into an unswitched socket.

The web site talks about remote switch accessories. Presumably these are to save you bending down on the floor but I really can't be done with investigating this after all the hassle I've had pulling the rest of the kitchen together!
 

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