Additional/moving aerial socket

[Lemond2008]

I am wanting to either move, or preferably add, a TV aerial socket in my lounge. The aerial is roof mounted, and the lead runs down the roof, down the outside of the house and enters the lounge through the window frame and into the aerial socket. The aerial only serves this socket.
The ideal new/existing socket location would be the other side of the room about 5m away. What is the best way of connecting to this socket? Only one socket would be in use at any time, and I want to run the coax under the floorboards without unsightly y-splitters or amplifiers. Is this possible to be done using a double socket as a splitter and running the second coax to the new socket?

 

[electronicsuk]

You could use a double socket and then effectively run the new socket as an 'extension', although you need to be sure that you purchase a double outlet with integral splitter, as some have connections for two cables at the rear.

That said, if you want to do a proper job then you would be much better fitting a signal amp somewhere in the house and running a separate cable between the amp and new socket, or use a masthead amp with multiple outputs and run a second downlead.

 

[Lemond2008]

Thanks Matthew - I think all the double sockets I have seen have had connections for two cables at the rear, and these were the sort that I was hoping to use as I want the coax to be as hidden as possible - are you saying that this won't work? I agree with the 'proper' way, but I am reluctant to use a signal amp unless there are specific ones for 'hiding away'. Also, is this method suitable for running the coax under floorboards, or is this in itself not best practice?

 

[electronicsuk]

Ah, I think I understand now. I had assumed that you were going to install a double outlet in place of the original with one side feeding an existing TV and the other with a lead going down the wall, under the floor and to the second socket. Seems like what you actually plan to do is have one side as the outlet, and the other as a link to the second socket, and you'll use a short plug-to-plug lead to link the two together?

If you can't find anywhere to hide a signal amp then it sounds as if a masthead amp would be just the ticket. As the name suggests, they mount externally on the aerial mast. You'd still need somewhere indoors to plug in the power supply unit, though.

Masthead amplifiers

 

[Lemond2008]

Sorry Matthew - It looks like I've completely muddled it now! Basically, what I want is the lead from the aerial to feed into the back of the first box (as it does now) and then a second coax to go out the back of the first box, under the floor and into the back of the second socket - much like a mains (radial) circuit feeds the sockets. I thought that the use of a double socket to replace the first socket might enable this (by connecting the two inputs together somehow) but ANY method and combination of types of sockets would do!
The only reason I want to do this really is that we are rearranging the lounge, and the TV is going to move. I am reluctant to have a long cable running along the floor, as somehow it needs to go past an open fire.
Thanks for the help so far mate

Cheers

 

[electronicsuk]

What you suggest would work, but you'll just have to use a short plug-to-plug lead between the two outlets on the first socket (where the TV used to be located) in order to feed the signal to the second, new socket.

There is no way of linking the two outlets on a double aerial socket together internally, so you wont be able to use both the old and new socket at the same time.

 

[Lemond2008]

Thanks for that - seems a pity. Have been reading a bit more, what about the use of a splitter like this:

http://www.labgear.co.uk/products.p...c1name=UHF Taps&sc2name=&pid=120&pname=FHU082

or

http://www.labgear.co.uk/products.p...c1name=UHF Taps&sc2name=&pid=118&pname=FHU061

or am i barking up completely the wrong tree?

 

[electronicsuk]

Thanks for that - seems a pity. Have been reading a bit more, what about the use of a splitter like this:

http://www.labgear.co.uk/products.p...c1name=UHF Taps&sc2name=&pid=120&pname=FHU082

or

http://www.labgear.co.uk/products.p...c1name=UHF Taps&sc2name=&pid=118&pname=FHU061

or am i barking up completely the wrong tree?

You can use a passive splitter hidden away somewhere, although the items that you've linked to are taps, and although they look the same, they aren't splitters as such. It should work fine as long as you're in a good signal strength area, as the more passive splits and outlets you add, the greater the attenuation and the lower the signal strength at the outlet. This is why powered signal amps are usually the preferred choice.

What you need is something like this which you could locate under the floor. You'll also need to buy some F plugs to terminate into that particular splitter. All the parts should be available from the larger DIY sheds.

 

[Lemond2008]

Thanks - That sounds like the right way to go.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What you need is something like this

Why not a coax splitter, and therefore no f*rting about with F-type plugs?

 

[rebuke]

If you don't need the original socket to work, then just put a coax coupler inside, and shove a blanking plate on the front, if you want both to work, I'd put a big backbox on, and put a passive Y-splitter inside the box, with a short length of coax to the front plate, and one to the other socket. It might be a bit of a squeeze, but if you get the right type of front plate, and a small enough splitter it should fit...

 

[electronicsuk]

What you need is something like this

Why not a coax splitter, and therefore no f*rting about with F-type plugs?

Because F plugs are a lot easier to work with, and more reliable to boot. If you buy twist-on types then there's no need for specialist tooling, either.

 

[Lemond2008]

Not quite sure what the benefit of a normal coax splitter would be? Surely this would still mean three cable terminations and plugs - if I'm doing that, then there is no extra work on terminating them with the better designed F-type is there?