Additional sockets

[Kron]

Hi all, I'm new here and just after a sanity check.

I am looking to put two number 2 gang SP sockets up in my loft in order to power a computer, printer and two monitors.

It is an old bungalow that I believe is a radial circuit. My thinking is to create a spur from a junction in the loft and fit the 2No sockets from the new spur. so I have a few questions:
Can I just daisy chain/radial from socket no.1 to socket no.2?
Do I need to make it a fused spur before fitting the sockets?
Is there a better way to fit the sockets?
I assume single pole sockets are suitable and I don't need double pole sockets?
Is there a definitive way to test whether the wiring is radial and not ring other than visually

Many thanks

 

[EFLImpudence]

What do you mean by a single pole socket? That wouldn't be much good.
If you mean single pole or double pole switches on the sockets then it doesn't matter (although double would be better) - no switch is required.

We need more details.

If the socket circuit is a radial what rating (Amps) is the fuse/MCB and what size is the cable.
It is though, much more likely to be a ring circuit with 30/32A and 2.5mm².

 

[EFLImpudence]

You can test for ring by - switch off power - separating the Line(live) wires in one of the sockets and testing for continuity between the two.

A radial will be open circuit and a ring (unless faulty) will be very low Ohms.

 

[Kron]

What do you mean by a single pole socket? That wouldn't be much good.
If you mean single pole or double pole switches on the sockets then it doesn't matter (although double would be better) - no switch is required.

We need more details.

If the socket circuit is a radial what rating (Amps) is the fuse/MCB and what size is the cable.
It is though, much more likely to be a ring circuit with 30/32A and 2.5mm².

Thank you

Single/double pole on the switched (switches of) sockets, switched is just a preference to be able to turn the appliances off at the end of the day, will look at getting a Double Pole if it is better.

The cable in question looks to be 2.5mm² and is wired into the 30/32A fuse on the old consumer unit. Looking to swap out the fuses with the Wylex Retro Fit MCB Circuit Breakers as soon as possible.

Will check for continuity later to confirm.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Single/double pole on the switched (switches of) sockets, switched is just a preference to be able to turn the appliances off at the end of the day, will look at getting a Double Pole if it is better.

Ok.

The cable in question looks to be 2.5mm² and is wired into the 30/32A fuse on the old consumer unit.

That should be a ring, then, if you are correct about the size of cable.

 

[Kron]

Does my reasoning still stand ground if it is a ring? can I Just take a feed (spur) from the junction box and work it through the sockets? with/without a making it a fused spur? do I have to make a return feed back to the junction box?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Does my reasoning still stand ground if it is a ring? can I Just take a feed (spur) from the junction box and work it through the sockets? with/without a making it a fused spur? do I have to make a return feed back to the junction box?

Well - if it is a ring and you plan to use 2.5mm² T&E for the spur then you will need a Fused Connector Unit with 13A fuse before any number of sockets (but limited to a total load of 13A) so you might as well use the FCU as your junction box. This will be adequate for your planned usage.

However, if you use 4mm² for the spur then you don't need a fuse and can run any usual appliances (with a total load of more than 13A) from any number of sockets but then you will need a junction box so swings and roundabouts.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

In the real world you‘ll be able to run all of the loads you mentioned (and a few more) on a 13 amp FCU. The only substantial loads in most domestic properties are kettle (only runs for about a minute at a time), hob, oven, dishwasher, washing machine and any electric heaters including immersion heaters and electric showers.

You can either run one cable from the FCU to each socket or daisy-chain them, whichever is more practical.

 

[Kron]

In the real world you‘ll be able to run all of the loads you mentioned (and a few more) on a 13 amp FCU. The only substantial loads in most domestic properties are kettle (only runs for about a minute at a time), hob, oven, dishwasher, washing machine and any electric heaters including immersion heaters and electric showers.

You can either run one cable from the FCU to each socket or daisy-chain them, whichever is more practical.

Thanks for the reassurance and the suggestion of running direct back yo the FCU rather than daisy chain, hadn't even considered that.

Much appreciated.

 

[SUNRAY]

if it is a ring and your cables run in the loft;

If you are cutting and adding a junction box into a ring circuit, you could use 2 junction boxes and include the new sockets between them so they become part of the ring.

Thinking further, cut the cable and divert it into one of the new sockets then add a cable from the second socket to the junction box (where you made the cut)