Advice needed to power flush a home

have yet to see a speck of anything coming out of it

I guess the question is how clean does the system water look, if it's still squeaky then I think that may be more down to how good you have the the system condition rather than the filter isn't catching anything. The only job I still look after where I fitted a MB2 to a new install, was a Logic + of all things 6 years ago, it's still a squeaky clean system too and never get anything out of the filter.

I know this is a promo vid but it does make a compelling case >

 
Few additional questions:

1. what’s a hex replacement as someone commented before my last post?

2. Is it recommended to ever drain and flush out one’s complete central heating system (as a homeowner) once every few years to clean out potential dirt build up? I appreciate that the more fresh water introduced to a system worsens the corrosion process compared to existing water which remains and also risk of moving dirt around. Nevertheless the question is posed. Obviously inhibitor will be added.

3. How much inhibitor should be added to a system with about 14 radiators when filled up from fresh? I know it depends on the amount of pipe runs etc but I can’t calculate that for what was originally a 3 bed semi but now a 5 bed semi.

4. Does inhibitor need to be topped up every year? Which make is recommended and does it matter if a different make is added to an existing system when it might have been a different make the first time? Is it ok to add it to the magnaclean rather than opening a radiator valve etc?
 
Hex is heat exchanger.
You can test water in system using a kit and add inhibitor accordingly.
Check out Adey website for full information.
And yes, a drain down and retreat is recommended whenever testing results indicate such.
We also perform turbidity tests which indicate other system contamination.
 
Thanks. Could you pls clarify the last two parts of your answer. I’m a DIY householder not a professional plumber. Thx.
 
Noble metals and less noble metals plus other non metallic materials, all used in a heating and hot water system, will influence corrosion and therefore system water quality. The galvanic scale shows which materials give up their electrons to other materials.
 
Thanks. Could you pls clarify the last two parts of your answer. I’m a DIY householder not a professional plumber. Thx.

Its been documented far more in depth than I can do here. Just look up the terminology.
Plenty of info out there and likely YouTube vids.
 
I was once called by an older Irish fellow with a large NW London house with about 14 rads on an open vented system.

He asked me to come and quote for a power flush so I said I would come and have a look. I tool a sample from 3-4 rads from the bleed points. Lovely clean water. I then went to the loft and the ( covered ) expansion tank was also beautifully clean.

I asked him if all the rads were working well and he agreed they were.

So I told him that I did not want to quote him as I could not find anything wrong with the system and it would achieve nothing.

He seemed a little surprised but I think that he accepted my findings! It is good to be honest.
 
Got an out side tap

try mains flushing it first

but remember to always leave one rad open !!!!!!!
 
What inhibitor would most of you pros recommend?
I've just had to empty the whole system again after we moved a GF radiator.
 
I just found an unopened 1 litre of Sentinel x100 that I bought around 2018. Still completely sealed in the clear plastic bag packaging. How long does this keep for / can I still use it?
 
I would also recommend the Sentinel 100 as inhibitor. With Fernox chemicals if Sentinel is not available.

Considering the cost of a heating system I really wonder why so many people put in cheap ( unknown ) chemicals.
 

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