Aerjec or Pump?

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I am trying to workout whether I’ve got a dodgy pump or an Aerjec problem (Aerjec is between header tank and pump inlet).

I am absolutely convinced that all other parts of my system are free-flowing (hosed through all radiator circuits - excellent flow rate), but I just can't get 8 rads hot simultaneously. 3 okay, but not them all.

There must, in my view, be a restriction between Aerjec input and pump output. (//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=122599)

Now, I don't fully know how the Aerjec works. I do know that if I remove the pump then I only get a moderate stream of water from the Aerjec even with the system full and with pressure from the header tank. But maybe it requires the pump to create the pressure difference to draw the water through?

So, Aerjec or Pump?
 
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There is nothing to go wrong with an Aerjec except a blockage ,which normally occurs in the cold feed !!

Has it been piped correctly?
 
Thanks to both for your feedback.
Yes it's been plumbed iaw the "standard" instructions (often hyperlinked from this forum). Been installed for over 15 yearss (i.e. before we came here).

Last week I thought the magnet test was inconclusive, but just to show I'm not a stubborn old so-and-so have tried it again with a slightly better (fridge!)magnet. Yes there is a definite attraction from the underside indicating some ferrous content.

I suppose it's not easy to clean without removing it (i.e. a blow torch job), in which case I might as well replace it? Or can I just get rid of it all together and be damned?

I presume that if it's working okay then water should flood through under head tank pressure - is that so?
 
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A magnet test will not really tell you much since magnetite will collect in the base of the unit...the important bit is the fedd and vent connections.

Just cut it out and replace it with a standard H pattern. Imagine bottom left leg is flow from boiler, top left is vent pipe, top right is feed pipe and bottom right connection to pump.
 
I presume that if it's working okay then water should flood through under head tank pressure - is that so?
...no, it`ll work because a 22mm pipe will take a lot of oxides to block...so it`s probably the 15mm cold feed to airjec that`s blocked :idea: I would prefer a airjec to an H layout
 
The new Aerjec (and a new control board for the boiler //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=829136#829136) has done the trick. 8 scalding radiators - first time for years!

Autopsy is being performed on the old Aerjec (which is an empty can with 4 pipes soldered on) but looking through the orifices it looks like 25% full of scale and dried sludge, virtually blocking flow from its outlet to the pump.
 
This was what aerjecs where designed to stop but they are a blood y nuisance for blocking like this, first few times you get these symptons used to think it can`t be blocked its got an air seperator,now one of first things you check
 
They ought to put a little "gunge trap" in the bottom that can be unscrewed and drained / scraped out!
 
And it's surprising how many are plumbed in just above boilers with compression fittings instead of soldering. They always leak and I've seen a few that have resulted in a hole corroded through the top of the boiler casing.
 
And it's surprising how many are plumbed in just above boilers with compression fittings instead of soldering. They always leak and I've seen a few that have resulted in a hole corroded through the top of the boiler casing.

Good compression should not leak. Why did a hole appear?
 
The Aejec pipe work was a soft temper (maybe still is) so the olives can't bite. The leaks caused corrosion and rusted through the casing. Seen many boilers ruined..another common problem are old style safety valves plumbed in just off the boiler flow pipe..the O ring bakes and drips water. No one notices if the boiler is high up on the wall.

Ideal (casing removed) rotted through..new boiler required.
 
Used to love changing those old safety valves we where allowed 2 hours to drain them down.... Mac on back to front dust sheets to protect and a quick snatch job 5 mins and early finish... Except for they guys that guessed wrong and took the 3/4 inch one out dropped it to floor only to find the 1/2 inch one they had in there hand did not fit. :oops: :oops: and they where daft enough to admit it.

IDEAL WRS like the position of the air vent above it :eek:
 
That house had been rented, I took over the CP12s for the agent. I disconnected the boiler, the DFE and the cooker..all had ID faults. I lost the contract shortly afterwards and sadly (for the health of the occupants) the state of this property was not unusual.
 
did you mention they may be able to claim a replacement boiler of their home insurance, as its water damage, you might even had kept the contract had you done so
 

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