Airing cupboard, leaking hex-connector next to pump

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I noticed water leaking from the (iron?) fitting (it has a hex pin at right angles to the direction of water flow) that sits below the pump (Grundfos) and links to the 22mm pipe; from the oxidation on the pipework below it must have been happening slowly for some time but is now fast enough that I need to see to it urgently. The same fitting above the pump is not showing any trouble.

I don't know how to shut off water so that I don't get a flood if I try to mend or replace this connector, and I also don't know if it is advisable to get someone to switch off the main central heating control (that bypasses the rest of the electrics I think) because we are dealing with hot water pipes here.

I have sketched for myself the locations of the stopcocks I can find, and there are five of those red "wheel" things and one with "wings". I can't work out which ones do what job, but two are behind the cylinder (one of these definitely on a pipe that branches off from the top of the cylinder), two are on pipes that appear to lead up into the roofspace and two are associated with the knot of piping near the pump and the base of the cylinder.

I suspect that if I mess with these without advice something else will go wrong! Please help, happy to call in an expert if that is what you advise but need to keep cost down!
 
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sounds like pump valve leaking, a pic, if possible, would confirm.

it is possible to change just the leaking valve but often easier to do both valves and the pump especially if there is a lot of rust.

Best way is to
1) turn off electric to heating system.

2)tie up ball valve on f&e tank - small one in loft - drain system using hose pipe connected to a drain cock, there is usually one by the boiler

3) disconnect the wire at pump

4) undo joints and refit in reverse order, make sure you use new pump washers

5) release ball valve, bleed system, and turn on.
 
Sounds like an expensive job requiring a visit from a plumber. I thought the pump was an expensive piece of kit? Just as an estimate, how much would you charge for the work as well?
 
Sounds like an expensive job requiring a visit from a plumber. I thought the pump was an expensive piece of kit? Just as an estimate, how much would you charge for the work as well?

If the pump valve or connection is leaking then the pump valves usually have to be changed which is a good opportunity to replace the pump.

We would probably charge a diagnostic fee of £84, plus £65 for pump plus £12 for valves if its on a sealed system. Extra if its on an open vented system as draining down and refilling is time consuming, usually an extra £60 but that all in London.

In Notts you could probably get it done a bit cheaper!

Or of course, you could DIY it if you have the tools and ability.

Tony
 
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This forum is brilliant. Probably will get someone to do this, there are innumerable problems associated with me undertaking most of the scheme of work recommended. I am satisfied that the "hex" thing I was talking about is the valve you mention, and that is what is leaking. It is great to get an idea of price, maybe I won't get totally ripped off!
 
It is great to get an idea of price, maybe I won't get totally ripped off!

I think its wonderful to get an idea of the price to expect and very useful to everyone.

The site Owner here used to be worried about anyone mentioning anything about prices but he is now relaxed about that.

Of course the prices will vary across the country and according to who you find to do it. Someone starting out might charge a bit less but often they do not know how much to charge and charge too much.

Tony
 
"hexagon pin at right angles to pipe" could be the stuffing gland. Does it have a round bar through the middle? If it is the gland, it is very easy and cheap to repair, without draining anything down. The first thing to try is tightening it. You can do that yourself if you have a suitable spanner.
If the valves do need replacing, it is ludicrous to replace the pump as well, since the only reason for the valves is to allow quick and easy pump replacement without draining down. Old valve often don't close completely, but with new ones in place, you know the job will be easy, whenever it does need doing
 

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