Aldi tracksaw

[^woody^]

But it still has far poorer dust extraction and it doesn't plunged - missed two tricks there, Woody, unless you have a Mosquito. Comparative useability is down to what type of work you do

I appreciate it don't plunge, but for cutting sheet I don't think that's required. But if need be, a circular saw can plunge.

Connected to my vortex collector and then vacuum, there is no dust. Or out on site it does not matter much without a vacuum.

As a concept, the two are exactly the same IMO. I'd rather have the versatility of a jig and a saw and then a saw for other uses, rather than a single use track saw.

Every time I see the Aldi or Lidl or other track saw offers, I run the same old arguments thorough my mind trying to justify one, but reach the same conclusions.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But if need be, a circular saw can plunge

Don't think I'd fancy doing a cut-out in a £250 worktop or door that way TBH. I am sure that you are aware of how easy it is to have a kickback doing that, or damage your rail, or end up with a scrappy entry cut. Far less likely with a plunge/rail saw

Connected to my vortex collector and then vacuum, there is no dust.

As I said before - I don't think you've ever used a plunge/rail saw in anger. There is a noticeable difference. I'm not just saying this based on a few months use - I've had plunge/rail saw for almost 20 years and I've used conventional saws since gawd only knows when - so I realise that the size of the extractor isn't the sole factor in how much dust you extract. At one time I had a Hilti plunging rail saw - when I swapped over to a Festool there was a noticeable improvement in dust extraction. That was with a 1600 watt class-M extractor

Or out on site it does not matter much without a vacuum.

I think that you'd find that the HSE disagree with you on that one. Even labourers aren't supposed to use a brush these days (with or without water suppression). Times have changed

As a concept, the two are exactly the same IMO. I'd rather have the versatility of a jig and a saw and then a saw for other uses, rather than a single use track saw.

I cannot dispute that, but I must say that having both a track saw and a cordless rip saw covers almost all the bases. For a DIYer I think the issue is really one of how much sheet work will you do vs. how much rough cutting, with the additional questions about whether or not the user has access to a chop saw or a jigsaw. I think you'll agree that what you buy is very much dependent on the mix of work you do.

 

[opps]

It will be the same result. The line is as straight as it could be, and yes it can be set up on skirting.

This is the principle of the jig. I made mine from Tufnol, which is a resin/mdf product like worktop mitre jigs are made from, and it has a thin rubber non-slip mat on the back so often does not need to be clamped.

I still think a jig and a saw is a better and more versatile option than a single dedicated tool and just as good to use.

I think you miss understood my post about ripping down skirting. I can remove 6mm from the bottom of skirting that is already fixed to the wall. There is no way that you can do that with a standard saw.

You haven't explained how to do accurate plunge cut outs either.

I strongly recommend that you try a festool/whatever and then reconsider whether you think that they are less accurate and useful.

 

[opps]

But if need be, a circular saw can plunge.

When plunge cutting cut outs I am happy to use my saw on the track with the riving knife removed. I am able to cut to within less than 0.5mm of where I want the cut to start. Can you safely and accurately do that with your saw and jig?

 

[^woody^]

When plunge cutting cut outs

Cut outs for what? All the common ones I can think of will be covered afterwards so can be done free hand.

Cutting fixed skirting is a bit obscure, but if that's your job and it needs a specific tool then yeah go for it. I've never had to do it in over 35 years.

 

[^woody^]

Don't think I'd fancy doing a cut-out in a £250 worktop or door that way TBH. I am sure that you are aware of how easy it is to have a kickback doing that, or damage your rail, or end up with a scrappy entry cut. Far less likely with a plunge/rail saw


As I said before - I don't think you've ever used a plunge/rail saw in anger. There is a noticeable difference. I'm not just saying this based on a few months use - I've had plunge/rail saw for almost 20 years and I've used conventional saws since gawd only knows when - so I realise that the size of the extractor isn't the sole factor in how much dust you extract. At one time I had a Hilti plunging rail saw - when I swapped over to a Festool there was a noticeable improvement in dust extraction. That was with a 1600 watt class-M extractor


I think that you'd find that the HSE disagree with you on that one. Even labourers aren't supposed to use a brush these days (with or without water suppression). Times have changed


I cannot dispute that, but I must say that having both a track saw and a cordless rip saw covers almost all the bases. For a DIYer I think the issue is really one of how much sheet work will you do vs. how much rough cutting, with the additional questions about whether or not the user has access to a chop saw or a jigsaw. I think you'll agree that what you buy is very much dependent on the mix of work you do.

My argument in the context of the OP and this site is that for 100% off the people 95% off the time, they don't need a track saw, just a way of cutting straight with a circular saw.

Yes if you have specific needs and these are very frequent then yes you may choose a track system. But most people's needs will start and end with cutting up a sheet of ply or similar.

And a vacuum on a circular saw gets the dust to hse standard.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

And a vacuum on a circular saw gets the dust to hse standard.

Only if the vacuum is a class-M one. The law changed several years ago and is actively enforced in the trades (or in other words we had one guy who was caught sawing without an FFP2 mask, but with a Henry vacuum and a basic Makita rip saw and "awarded" a £160 fine on the spot, about 3 years ago, which I took as a statement of intent by the HSE).

The odd thing about using a track saw is that once you have one all sorts of possibilities open up for you that weren't possible before. Trim a door to length? A track saw makes that easy and negates the need for a power planer (taking chipboard core fire doors here). Trim a lipped door to width retaining the original lipping for re-use (not an uncommon requirement when installing new doors in old openings). You guessed it, track saw. Cut materials for boxing or furniture making quickly and accurately with no need to sand or plane the edges after sawing? Track saw again. Box gutters? Better, faster, easier with a track saw. Crosscut a worktop? Track saw is better than non-track saw, especially as chip-out at the cut edge is minimal. Cutting tight-fitting cement board ceilings? Yep, track saw is better, certainly faster and less dusty. Also do an amount of decorative cladding where a track saw is invaluable, so not quite a one trick pony. As you say, though, the issue is volume - just as it is for a circular saw vs. a hand saw

 

[Tigercubrider]

I do own a circular saw, but it's a good 20 years old and is a black and decker repair/return one.
At work we have a massive striebig wall panel saw plus table saw. We also have a festoon tracksaw that I can borrow. But I do enough diy to justify a tracksaw of my own if it's less than £100 or so

If you've never used a tracksaw then imho you don't know what you are arguing about.
I couldn't see the point of an iPad originally, it was a bad laptop. Then I played with one

 

[opps]

But most people's needs will start and end with cutting up a sheet of ply or similar.

And if those people are DIYers then the track saw should be safer and more accurate.