Allen key head had sheared in pump head bolt!!

[bilabonic]

Hi all

Finally getting around to replacing the pump head on Ferroli 701.

Drained down etc.

Started to remove the 4 bolts and first one was bit stiff. Had use spanner on end but it loosened.

Second one felt same and I presumed I opened /cracked it but my Allen key snapped!!

Anyone had this?

What’s the best way to proceed as I only have the new pump head.

I’m thinking remove the whole thing.
Get it on bench/magne/remove snapped end stuck in bolt.

Then somehow remove them with a stronger 4mm key???

Cheers

 

[CountryFan]

Some nejisaurus pliers may work, but try soaking in some WD-40 as well. Do you have a t bar Allen key?

 

[Madrab]

As the pump connections have leaked, those steel bolts will have seized pretty solid in that cast housing. You could soak in penetrating oil but even then they may not move.

Yes, getting it onto the bench may help but it will need to be held really securely to work on those bolts. The better tool IMO would be a CV allan set on a socket set TBH. Even then be prepared to get a new housing.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Second one felt same and I presumed I opened /cracked it but my Allen key snapped!!

Those bolts, are not usually that tight, my guess would be that your key had a built-in weakness. However, starting to undo a tight bolt, with the weaker, ball end of the key is never a good idea. You should have used the shorter end, with no ball, that way you would have had all the leverage, and less risk of breaking the key.

Likely, the broken tip, is now jammed in the socket - try gently tapping it with a punch, plus hammer, to free it.

 

[Deluks]

File flats on the side of the bolt head. Use adjustable. Be prepared to shear the bolt off in the process!
If you do manage to get the allen key out, try tightening it up a smidge next time, then alternate between loose/ tight, the object is just to get it moving.

 

[bilabonic]

Not a chance is the pump cut.
28 years limescale on it.
It’s going damage existing boiler pipework

Can’t see penetrating oil doing much tbh but eight be an option. Used to get this on site with Aluminium box’s/metal screws. Forever dellling them out/rethreading/ GREASING new bolts for future.

Going try my socket set/extensions/impact gum…..

I did try the non ball end but no access with long or short keys.

Swapped loads of pumps iver the years and never had one like this.

 

[bilabonic]

Some nejisaurus pliers may work, but try soaking in some WD-40 as well. Do you have a t bar

I don’t think I’d get pair them in there tbh mate.
Even if I did the amount of force applied compared tye Allen would be much less.

I use Plus Gas for stuck bolts.
WD40 is way to thick.

Cheers

 

[kidgreen61]

Ferroli= skip

 

[bilabonic]

Since 1997 I have replaced PCB.
X2 PRV. £7 each
X1 fan. £40

All super cheap amd PCB I broke tbh. £60

So not bad for £350 (cost of boiler).

No diverter valve.
Separate heat exchangers for CH/HW.

Now the others like the Domi Condens I agree totally.
Absolute rubbish

 

[bilabonic]

Anyway I managed to get another bolt out with Plus Gas soak and impact on low.
Other two have rounded.

I then had a go at pump.
Got bottom nut free with hammer/chisel to get it moving.

The top one will NOT budge.
I have virtually split the nut open and it moving on the the flanged thread part above.

Need a cuppa and think about ringing few of my mates for a price on a new one.

Arggghhhh!!!

 

[Old Salt]

I know it wont help you but it may help someone else. As already stated some times nipping them up a bit can help get them free. Never undo one bolt/nut all the way before the others have been loosened. Get it moving half a turn then do the same for the others. Working opposite sides can help. Diesel makes a good penetrating oil. If all else fails get a bigger hammef