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I have to agree with you, the tungsten light had no strobe effect. With LED it is unknown, even using 10 - 30 VDC MR16 down lights they likely use a pulse width modulated controller so there will be some strobe effect.
At university we did an experiment with LED lights, using standard red LED's we tried pulsing and over driving, looking at light output with our eyes it looked brighter, but measure with a LUX meter and no change average power was same.
I have noted since last house LED that replaced CFL looked far brighter, but could not read a book. As to photography again some odd results, I assume due to a focal plain shutter, in real terms my camera has a shutter speed of 1/180th of a second, to get higher speeds the shutter starts to close before it is fully open, so it scans the scene, each pixel on sensor may be exposed for 1/2000th of a second, but whole exposure still takes 1/180th of a second.
To freeze motion best option is flash, you can freeze at 1/18,000th of a second in a dark room with flash, but this does not help with fill in flash, and today we get flash guns that send a stream of pulses to extend the illuminated time to 1/180th of a second.
LED seems in the main good for photography, giving a better colour rendering than most other artificial light sources, but every so often it goes wrong, lucky today we can look at result on camera back and see when it has gone wrong and retake. LED lighting can upset a cameras light meter, not so much with through the lens metering, but does happen, and what seems brightly lit, when looking at the cameras meter, it shows as low light levels.
At university we did an experiment with LED lights, using standard red LED's we tried pulsing and over driving, looking at light output with our eyes it looked brighter, but measure with a LUX meter and no change average power was same.
I have noted since last house LED that replaced CFL looked far brighter, but could not read a book. As to photography again some odd results, I assume due to a focal plain shutter, in real terms my camera has a shutter speed of 1/180th of a second, to get higher speeds the shutter starts to close before it is fully open, so it scans the scene, each pixel on sensor may be exposed for 1/2000th of a second, but whole exposure still takes 1/180th of a second.
To freeze motion best option is flash, you can freeze at 1/18,000th of a second in a dark room with flash, but this does not help with fill in flash, and today we get flash guns that send a stream of pulses to extend the illuminated time to 1/180th of a second.
LED seems in the main good for photography, giving a better colour rendering than most other artificial light sources, but every so often it goes wrong, lucky today we can look at result on camera back and see when it has gone wrong and retake. LED lighting can upset a cameras light meter, not so much with through the lens metering, but does happen, and what seems brightly lit, when looking at the cameras meter, it shows as low light levels.
