Another Candy Washing Machine problem!

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Hi there, I'm a newby to DIYnot. I have a Candy Model: GO482/2-80 3100306509360386 washing machine giving problems. I've had it just on a year. Whatever program I select (apart from spin) the machine takes on water from both compartments and starts to heat up instantly to the highest temperature, (I've already boiled one load of washing!) it doesn't seem to do the intermittant wash & heat. Once the machine has taken on water it won't let me cancel the program to drain it, I can only get it to drain if I remove the clothes and bail out most of the water, it will then drain and indeed spin. I've done the usual, cleared the filter, checked the outlet pipe, blew down outlet hose and the pump seems ok, the impellor is turning ok.

Problem is that I live in Spain, but brought the machine over from the UK. So before I go down the road of calling out a Spanish engineer I would like to know if there is anything I can do myself.

Anyone out there got any ideas? :confused:
 
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The machine should throw up an error code when something goes wrong. Normally this is manifested by a repeated series of flashes on the first LED and the first option LED (left side). The sequence lasts approx 15 secs (i.e. "X" flashes - pause - repeat).
If your machine boils every wash then it points to an open-circuit NTC sensor, which is either mounted in the heater element itself or on the back wall of the tub close to the heater. It is worth noting that intermittent drain problems on some Candy models can also be caused by a slight earth leakage on the heater element. But unless you have access to a 500v megger it is not possible to check. If you own a multimeter & know how to use it then you could check the NTC resistance. But if all this kind of stuff is new to you then your best bet might be to call an engineer (even a Spanish one).
 
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Thanks Zipper.

I've just tried the machine again (albeit without a load). It's definitely not throwing up an error code. However, the machine went straight into heating mode again. It would seem that your last suggestion is the most probable. Will try the multimeter next.

Many thanks for your help.
 
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At 25C the NTC should measure around 20k ohms. When warmed to 85C the resistances should go down to around 2k ohms. If it doesn't measure near these values the NTC is bad.
 
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So my understanding is, if the NTC sensor is permanently open circuit and there is water in machine, does that mean its constantly heating and thus will not allow me to select any other program?

I have noticed that when I bail the water out of the machine, when it gets down to a certain level there is a click from the machine (as if its ended the program), I am then able to select the drain program

If the NTC sensor proves faulty is it a straightforward task to replace?

Sorry if I am being a bit dim, but my husband is in the UK at moment and I'm trying sort this myself.
 
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NTC's can fail O/C or shorted, one condition can cause overheating & the other no heat at all. You could also have earth leakage from the heater element, a faulty pressure switch or pcb issue. I am a bit concerned that your machine isn't throwing up an obvious error code. It could be that not all error codes are visible to the end user, I'm not sure. But to prevent needless speculation I suggest running a diagnostic test program...if you're up for that??? I assume your machine does not have an LCD screen?
 
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Hi Zipper, thanks for replying.

You are correct there is not an LCD screen on the machine. Apart from the various function buttons, there is an illuminated strip which counts down the time of wash (ie 90/60/30 mins) and also shows the spin speed.

As for a diagnostic test, well I'll give it a go!
 
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Only run the test program with an empty tub.
Turn the program selector to off. Press & hold in the first option button on the left (usually spin speed). Turn the program selector 2 positions clockwise. Release the button as soon as the LED on it illuminates. Once the button is released all the option LED’s, maximum spin LED, + all LED’s on the residual time indicator should become permanently lit. Within 5 seconds press the start button. If successful the residual time LED’s and the max spin LED start flashing alternatively with the option LED’s & the test program should start automatically. The machine then goes through a sequence of testing each function in turn. If a fault occurs the program is stopped and an error code displayed. Error codes are manifested by a repeated series of flashes on the first option LED & first LED in the residual time indicator (more or less straight above the option LED). Should an error be found you should see ”x” flashes – pause – then repeat (until the machine is switched off). To exit the test program at any time turn the machine off at the program selector. Good luck...post results.
 
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Hi Zipper.

Before I start this test I've noticed that the spin speed button does not have an LED. The onlyt buttons with LED's are beneath the time and spin speed indication strip, they are from left to right, Stain Vanish, Allergy Care and Fast Wash.

Am I to presume that if the dianostic test is successful, the flashes will be seen on these buttons?

Cheers
 
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I wish they wouldn't go swapping buttons around :rolleyes:
Exchange the spin speed button with the "stain vanish" button (providing this is the first option button on the left). Error codes should appear on this LED + the first LED on the left of the residual time strip. These two should flash in unison if an error is detected.
 
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Thanks Zipper, well we're up and running! All the LED's are illuminated. The selector button is on 60c pre-wash, the machine has taken on water and is now heating up (I am presuming this is what should happen?)

How long does the diagnostic test roughly take? I realise that there will be several functions for it to go through.
 
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To be honest I can't remember its ages since I ran one....maybe 20mins or so??
 
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Hi Zipper :(
Well I ran the diagnostic test with no result. All the LED's illuminated, the machine took on water and started heating up straight away! In fact I let the test run for a good half hour or so, by that time the water was boiling in the drum :!: and steam was coming out the door, but no flashing LED's. By that time I was rather worried that the intense heat might damage the machine, so I ended the test I'm afraid.

I'm wondering, if the heater sensor thingy that you mentioned in your previous posts was open circuit all the time, would this perhaps cause a glitch in the diagnostic test?

Do you think I should give the test another go, even though the water boils, but leave it longer? (as long as it doesn't damage machine)
 
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Something sadly wrong here :eek: Drop any further tests...I fear your pcb is history. If it was just a failed NTC the machine should display an error code & it doesn't.
In test mode the machine should do the following: Fill water through the pre-wash tray - Heat for MAX 20secs - Fill water through the main wash tray - Run anti-clockwise at wash speed - Fill more water through the softener tray - Run clockwise at wash speed - Pump out until empty - Perform a short half speed spin -Test ends (after 15 - 20mins max). If a fault occurs during the test the program should halt & an error code is signaled. The absence of a valid error code & the fact that the test program hasn't aborted leads me to believe your pcb has is defective. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. A new programmed pcb costs around £80.
 
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Hi Zipper :(

Thanks for that, I had a feeling that the answer would not be a simple fault!

Right, first question, is it a straight forward job to fit a new PCB?
Second, I am presuming I can get hold of one fairly easily - I can always get it sent out from the UK. And pricewise is it going to be loads of dosh.
 

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