Another Hive 2 Installation

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Hi i want to Install a Hive 2 Thermostat. It is the Single Channel Receiver and the boiler Is an Ariston EVO combi. I currently have no thermostat fitted and use only the timer on the boiler to control on/off times.
The Boiler is wired from a 3amp spur that runs behind tiles etc. I'll upload some pictures to show you what I have to work with. What I want to do is attach a 3mm cable from L/N/E on the boiler to the Receiver and then I think I need to use another cable and use 2 wires to connect from TA1 on boiler to number 2 and 3 on the receiver. Does this sound like anything close to what I need to be doing. Thanks in advance!
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Sounds OK but note that the two wires from TA1 will go to terminals 1 & 3 in the Hive receiver backplate; ie the Common and Heating ON terminals.
 
Thanks for the Reply!! Well that's good news so far! I wasn't too sure originally where I would get my L and N from as it was almost impossible to add another spur due to the tiling etc. Those clips/connecter's that the mains go to now, do those have a specific name at all?
TA > Common and Heating On, would it matter which way round they connect from TA at all? Thanks again for the reply!!

Also the manual for Hive 2 calls for a 3mm separated cabe, is this just a 3mm 3 core?
 
It doesn't matter which way round you make the connections from TA to the Hive. The Hive simply connects those two wires together internally when heating is demanded.

As the Hive doesn't actually use the Earth connection it would be OK to use a 2 core cable for both runs, eg mains cable of the sort used for light pendants. Heat resistant would be a bonus. :)
 
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Hi again just a quick report back on what I've done so far.
I'll attach 2 photos although they are not the best.
I couldn't get any 2 core Heat resistant today as my only real option at 15.50 was B&Q and they were about to shut so picked up some 2.5mm 3 core T&E the type you would use in a ring circuit I believe rated upto 27amp, obviously overkill and it isn't flexible but it's in now just a bit trickier to work with. I cut the 5m cable in half stripped the wires back and removed the earth as far as I've stripped the cable back. I taped 1 cable with white tape at both ends and Attached one end Blue and Brown to either side of TA1 and the other end to 1 (Commom) and the other to 3 (Heating On) on the receiver. The other cable I've taped in red is the Power Supply Cable, I added this to the connecter where the mains join the board using the green connecter L,Brown to L on the receiver and N,Blue to N on the receiver. I've not tidied anything up yet so the receiver is still floating next to the cupboard that the wire will run through and connect to the side of. The 2 cable run up the outside of the boiler and will be hidden through the top of the adjoining cupboard where everything will connect to the ouside once finished. I'm just missing some spade connecters or something similar that I will use to tidy the connections up a bit more inside the receiver once I'm ready to finish up, but for now I had to get the power back on and wanted it testing so I would know if I could get some CH in the morning. All working good so thank you very much for your help appreciate it a lot! Hopefully someone else with similar combi boiler and connections who wants to install the Hive 2 will find this and it will help them also.
 

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I’m just about to do this on the same set up. Did you disable the timer? Sure I read something about disabling the timer.
 
Is the timer connected to TA1? If so you would have to remove it’s wiring to connect the Hive receiver. The timer would then have no effect on the boiler.
 
Hi,
I know this is a little late, but installed my Hive Heating on a Ariston EVO combi 30 today.
As above connect the power into the receiver to N (Blue or Black)and L (Brown or Red).
Connect one wire from TA1 to pin 1 and the other to 3 order does not matter as it only joins these to together is there is demand for heating.

To remove the timer on the boiler so only the hive controls the heating and not the hive and the internal timer just unplug it from the board. Really that is it! Took me a while but figured out the timer is a closed circuit for being OFF and an open circuit for ON, therefore removing the plug on the board will make the boiler think the timer circuit is open t so now only the hive is needed to trigger the boiler. Tested and working.

Hope that helps, this also removes the ticking once the backup battery runs out of charge.
 

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