Any pitfalls in making new holes in a deadbolt lock to take a different handle?

Joined
23 May 2011
Messages
79
Reaction score
3
Location
Gwent
Country
United Kingdom
Long story short.. 15 year old house.. Door handles in Metal Clad doors are ruined (pitted and broken).. Tried to find replacements and other than the fact they are 92PZ, the top/bottom hole spacing is totally non-standard.

I finally got around to removing the lock and found that there were a couple of hole choices.. So went back and STILL can't find anything that fits

So my option now is to modify the locks and drill new holes.. I have checked the areas in question and there are no moving pairs.. Just air.. So is there anything I am overlooking here? Could I create new holes in the lock to take a door handle?
 
Sponsored Links
Only if the work was classed as a modification which affected the security status of the door for insurance purposes.

Blup
 
Also watch that you don't get any swarf inside the lock as that can really booger up the workings of some locks
 
Is this "handle hole" for a spindle? Or fixing screws?

Please take some photos and post on here, preferably with dimensions. There are more locks around than you think.

If it was me I would dismantle it before drilling, and clean before reassembly.
 
Sponsored Links
Assuming its an MPL lock seeing as you mentioned the PZ being 92mm could you not find handles with hole centres further apart and drill new holes missing the MPL completely
 
See attached picture.

I have 3 locks like this and all 3 sets of handles are in the same shape...

They are 92PZ where the bottom screw goes UNDER the lock, and the top screw through the lowest hole (65mm from the spindle)

Nothing I found would fit.. But now that I have seen the locks I can see 2 holes.. 65mm and 80mm, and even a 92mm smaller one above... But still nothing fit.

The Hoope or Yale locks are close as they have good (215mm) spacing.. The bottom screw will go under the lock like mine but the top screw needs to be 75mm from the spindle, so this means drilling out the material between the 2 holes.

I can't see any problem with this as there are no moving parts but as mentioned, "Swarf" is a concern, so I will have to do something to try not to let it in the lock.

I was going to go for a Mira lock, but that would mean taking out a 1-2mm chunk right at the bottom of the lock as the screw just touches the body, so decided against t hat..

So I have gone for the Yale in the end, just because I was able to get one of their Stainless TS007 Platinum Maximum Security handles for a good price and this will add security by covering the Euro lock on the outside.. Also, as the backplate is 245x32mm so will cover up the mess on the door from the old handle... I liked the Mira as it was 35mm wide, but its only 240 long so bottom would never be as neat and fitting the screw would have ment a 2nd modification..

So my plan is to simply drill out the top hole and then handle should fit perfectly.. And if this works rinse and repeat for the other 2.


About the locks.. The one I am attempting first I had a bad feeling about as it was jammed solid.. I took it out and tried to open it, but the screws are seized and I gave up.. So I sprayed in some lithium grease and it loosened right up.. Its perfect now, so I think (hope) that a good lube is all they will need. So whilst modifying the locks, I am going to grease them like the first and hope this will keep them running.

If anyone has any thoughts or advice about this, I am all ears...

Jon

Edit: And now I think about it, I will probably not drill the lock.. Instead I may look at a way of cutting between the 2 holes and folding the flaps back so there is no swarf.. It that doesn't work, a dis cutter instead to join the 2 holes up to make an oval. Atleast with a disc cutter it will blow most of the swarf out, not in.. and what does go in will be dust, rather than chips..
 

Attachments

  • Grid Lock Lock small.jpg
    Grid Lock Lock small.jpg
    217.6 KB · Views: 38
Last edited:
See attached picture.

I have 3 locks like this and all 3 sets of handles are in the same shape...

They are 92PZ where the bottom screw goes UNDER the lock, and the top screw through the lowest hole (65mm from the spindle)

Nothing I found would fit.. But now that I have seen the locks I can see 2 holes.. 65mm and 80mm, and even a 92mm smaller one above... But still nothing fit.

The Hoope or Yale locks are close as they have good (215mm) spacing.. The bottom screw will go under the lock like mine but the top screw needs to be 75mm from the spindle, so this means drilling out the material between the 2 holes.

I can't see any problem with this as there are no moving parts but as mentioned, "Swarf" is a concern, so I will have to do something to try not to let it in the lock.

I was going to go for a Mira lock, but that would mean taking out a 1-2mm chunk right at the bottom of the lock as the screw just touches the body, so decided against t hat..

So I have gone for the Yale in the end, just because I was able to get one of their Stainless TS007 Platinum Maximum Security handles for a good price and this will add security by covering the Euro lock on the outside.. Also, as the backplate is 245x32mm so will cover up the mess on the door from the old handle... I liked the Mira as it was 35mm wide, but its only 240 long so bottom would never be as neat and fitting the screw would have ment a 2nd modification..

So my plan is to simply drill out the top hole and then handle should fit perfectly.. And if this works rinse and repeat for the other 2.


About the locks.. The one I am attempting first I had a bad feeling about as it was jammed solid.. I took it out and tried to open it, but the screws are seized and I gave up.. So I sprayed in some lithium grease and it loosened right up.. Its perfect now, so I think (hope) that a good lube is all they will need. So whilst modifying the locks, I am going to grease them like the first and hope this will keep them running.

If anyone has any thoughts or advice about this, I am all ears...

Jon

Edit: And now I think about it, I will probably not drill the lock.. Instead I may look at a way of cutting between the 2 holes and folding the flaps back so there is no swarf.. It that doesn't work, a dis cutter instead to join the 2 holes up to make an oval. Atleast with a disc cutter it will blow most of the swarf out, not in.. and what does go in will be dust, rather than chips..

most MP locks with 92mm ctrs will take different handle bolt spacings -there are 2 common ones, Im surprised you havent found one that works -the problem is that the spacings are often not noted on the description
 
most MP locks with 92mm ctrs will take different handle bolt spacings -there are 2 common ones, Im surprised you havent found one that works -the problem is that the spacings are often not noted on the description

My spacing from the handle are 65, 80 and 92mm (Although the 92mm hole is small)

I have looked at the technical drawings of literally 1000s of handles and I can't find any that fit the 65mm spacing of my old handles, and none that I have found since will take the 80 or 92mm holes either.

If I could simply open up the slot between the 2 holes in mine, it opens up a world of options...
 
Just to give a final update on this incase it helps anyone else..

I took each lock out and 2 of them could be opened.. The one from the back door was a horror show as it had lots of parts of an old lock lying inside combined with the housing and some of the parts were bent. Either the original owner got locked out and a locksmith broke in.. OR.. They were burgled...

Either way, I picked out all the parts, cut out the material between the 65 to 80mm holes leaving a slot.. And gave them a good grease.. Then re-assembled.

Then i fitted them back, but used the garage lock (which had hardly been used) on the back door and visa versa, so now I have a nice "new" lock on the back-door now as the old one just felt floppy and vague (due to the bent parts).

As for handles, I went for the Yale Platinum Stainless Steel TS007 "Maximum Security" versions which are REALLY solid.. Bizarrely, they are £42 in B&Q, where as their "standard" ones (Chrome Plated) are £52... I also changed the Euro Locks too and went for Yale TS007s to match the locks

The Yale was an ideal choice as the screw spacing matches my new "slots".. And they are also wider and taller than the old ones too, so they cover the mess left by the old handles..

So its all done now and look amazing.. The handles and locks are solid and its a world away from what it was like before...

It was a good few hours spent so thanks to all for giving me somewhere to lay down my thoughts.

Cheers all.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top