Are these WEEP HOLES under the damp proof course?

[zappastix]

Hi

Property was built around 1976. It is a bungalow with concrete floors throughout.

I've removed an exterior door, and bricked it up half way, for a D/G bathroom window
to sit on top.

When I removed the wooden threshold for the door I found the damp proof course,
I started my bricks (as you do) above it.

Because of the weather, I decided to do all the brickwork first and then the blocks after.

When I cleared everything up ready for the blocks, I noticed under the edge of the
damp proof course on the interior side there are FOUR HOLES - which are evenly spaced,
the holes are 15mm wide and go into a void that I couldn't find anything long enough
to see how deep.

Not to confuse the issue - but the door that I removed had had something much wider
here before, as the brick work was in a mess and there is a lintel running for about 2 metres.
It was probably a window.

With that in mind, the brickwork/cavity where the holes are is possibly the original continuous
run as the rest of the brickwork is.

Is it a fair assumption that these holes are in fact weep holes and that they would be installed
right around the property?

Hope I've made sense.

Any guidance here would be welcome, as I can't start the blocks until I know.

Thanks, Stephen

 

[zappastix]

FOUND THE ANSWER - HERE IT IS IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED

Oil Rods;

http://www.gobrick.com/BIA/technotes/t21c.htm

Weep holes

Weep holes must be placed at the base of the cavity and at all other flashing levels. They provide a means of draining away any moisture that may have found its way into the cavity. Weep holes must provide a clear access to the cavity and must be placed directly on the flashing for proper drainage.

Weep holes can be easily created or installed by various methods. In order of effectiveness these are:

1. Eliminating each second or third head joint.

2. Inserting oiled rods, rope or pins in the head joint at a maximum of 16 in. (410 mm) o.c. and removing before final set of the mortar.

3. Placing metal or plastic tubing in the head joint at a maximum of 16 in. (410 mm) o.c.

4. Placing sash cord or other suitable wicking material in the head joint at a maximum of 16 in. (410 mm) o.c.

 

[Nige F]

Thanks for link - I was a bit confused by your description as to where the holes were