Audi A4 2.6 Quattro - Head Gasket Blown - End of Life?

[nervousamateur]

A little advice goes a long way and I need some. Experience wise my last major job was about 20 years ago. Up until then I had totally rebuilt a beetle engine and various tasks on a MK4 cortina (like changing the clutch/ ignition faults etc.) and looking after my MGB. I even changed the head gasket on something but can't remember what/when it was.
I have shied away since the new engines all covered in plastic came about.
My 2006 Audi 2.6 V6 Quattro (owned by me since 2008) has been well looked after by my local garage after 10 years of Audi servicing.
Now, through a bit of bad luck a whole in the radiator has left me with a blown gasket and it's heading up to a 1000 pounds to get all the necessary work done: I think that's too much for the old girl.

Question:
Would I be able to do this myself in the driveway?
Is it easy enough to get front offf the car [I think that's necessary] and the head apart to replace the gasket? I believe I need a new water pump too. No need to worry about re-gassing aircon as it doesn't work (never really did - dodgy compressor when I bought it!).
Can I find a relevant manual somewhere (workshop manual)
Are there nasty things waiting to go wrong or can I bypass all the gadgetry in the engine bay and just get to the head/gasket and fix the problem?
I'd also need to replace the Rad but I think that might be the easier part?

I saw James May replace a head gasket on a BMW on a Top Gear special ten minutes ago (only saw 10 seconds but that's what he was doing in a garage in India on his todd in the middle of the night - can't be that hard then?!!)

Talking to my mechanic he did also suggest that replacing the HG on a car this old (134k miles) can lead to further problems manifesting with the additional stress...any thoughts? Would it be better to fit a second hand engine? (if I could find one; but surely that's even more work to fit so costs more?)....

Any advice would be very welcome as I am now flat broke and my options are very limited.

Thanks for any thoughts at all.

 

[jctilingservices]

its easier to fit another engine and quicker, not sure money wise though.

as far as i am aware the front end all un bolts to give you millions of space

yes you could do it on your driveway, not particularly hard but quite a bit fiddly though, you gotta remember £1000 is not a lot of money to repair a 2006 quatro mate

 

[iwaters]

The bumper comes off and then the radiator tips forward to give you access to the belts. You need to find some long bolts to hold the radiator in place. If the rad needs replacing anyway you can remove it while you do the head work

The offical Audi workshop manaul is called Elsawin, dodgy copies are everywhere on the Internet.

Unfortunatlety the cam pulleys on that engine are tappered fit so you need a number of specialist tools to stop the cams turning when you re-fit an pre-tension the belt. The tools will cost about £150, still cheaper than paying someone but you will probably never use them again. If you can weld some of the tools can manufactured yourself.

There are some who say you don't need the tools and can just mark the belt and pulleys with tipex but I think they are mental.

Whilst it is in bits might as well replace the water pump, thermostat and timing belt. That will come to about £200-£250 in parts.

You will have to remove the rocker covers and the gaskets must be replaced when you refit them, a set of them is about £50. If you don't replace them expect your engine to leak oil everywhere (if it doesn't already, very common on these engines).

The next problem you have is if the head is warped and needs skiming, you will have to remove the head on the other bank and get that skimmed to, otherwise the two banks will have a different compression ratio potentially.

Lastly, the head bolts are not normal hex bolts but can be one of two different multipoint designs, can be hard to find the correct bit, although you should be able to buy from Audi. You will need to look first because they changed the bolt type between chassis breaks so you can't tell just from what year I believe.

A second hand engine off Ebay will cost about £500-£700 but god knows what state that will be in.

 

[Belle427]

personally i dont see how changing the head gaskets will lead to more stress on the engine if its done properly. Did it overheat at all?
you have to decide how much you value the car, if it were mine id probably get it done as its only 5 years old. The mileage isnt huge for that engine.

 

[nervousamateur]

That's extremely useful info. Thank you.

On a scale of 1-10 how tricky is it to do this job?...I assume workshop manual just shows how to dismantle pieces not instruct how to do a job, like replace head gasket? Is this good enough for a non-trained mechanic?

For example I've never touched a fuel injection car (until I read up on it it's rocket science to me) - can I just unbolt everything, remove and then replace in reverse order or is there more to think about?...assuming I don't screw up the timing which I assume is what you were referring to above.
How does one know if the head needs skimming - or does one do this anyway to be sure?...

Will the ECU need to be tuned to deal with new compression ratio's (or something else)? I think this needs electrician with correct equipment?

Sorry for dumb questions but before researching properly I'm trying to establish if it's within the realms of sanity for me to have a go!

....and is it a sensible project or should I give up and risk buying an old jalopy thats cheaper to run instead?...is this a model worth the effort or is it just me holding onto a dead horse. I've had no oil leaks as you suggested is common (good clean engine and well serviced) but have to change at least two suspension components a year (bloody audi suspension; still, not too expensive)...and a steering rack a while ago (expensive).....will it get worse or is there longevity in this model? Any thoughts? I know its not an economical option (!) but I am attached to it - on the other hand I'm broke and I don't want to be a fool!

All advice and thoughts very welcome; either way.

 

[nervousamateur]

personally i dont see how changing the head gaskets will lead to more stress on the engine if its done properly. Did it overheat at all?
you have to decide how much you value the car, if it were mine id probably get it done as its only 5 years old. The mileage isnt huge for that engine.

oops! I got my centuries mixed up. It's 1996, the car is 15 years old, not 5. Does that change your answer?! It owes me nothing. I have owned it for 15 years. Other than standard running costs (wheel bearings/brakes/servicing)I have probably spent about 5k max over the last 6 years (main probs being a new steering rack and and a sheered propshaft). I have watched friends spend a lot more on newer 2nd hand cars.

Cause of problem: hole in radiator = The car overheated and needed 4 litres of replacement coolant: hole filled with radweld; head gasket diagnosed by pressure testing. Still runs fine but oil traces in coolant. (no water/yoghurt showing on oil dipstick)

 

[Belle427]

at that age its probably time to stick it on ebay for spares or repair

 

[iwaters]

Ah 1996, now I know why I couldn't find a 2006 2.6 in the manual! I just noticed your other post as I was replying to the other one/

No rough running and no visible signs of coolant mixing with oil. I don't think your head gasket has gone. Oil in coolant usually means a problem with the oil cooler. And if you head gasket had gone you would notice problems with the engine.

Who diagnosed the gasket? Was a proper compression test done? Just having low compression doesn't mean a blown gasket.

Also replacing a head gasket on that engine at that mileage is not going to cause more damage if it is done correctly. At that mileage the engine has only just been properly run in

Do you trust the mechanic? I would look for another opinion.

 

[nervousamateur]

No rough running and no visible signs of coolant mixing with oil. I don't think your head gasket has gone. Oil in coolant usually means a problem with the oil cooler. And if you head gasket had gone you would notice problems with the engine.

Who diagnosed the gasket? Was a proper compression test done? Just having low compression doesn't mean a blown gasket.

Also replacing a head gasket on that engine at that mileage is not going to cause more damage if it is done correctly. At that mileage the engine has only just been properly run in

Do you trust the mechanic? I would look for another opinion.

Sorry about year mixup! Yes the 2.6 was changed to the 2.8 in '97 I think.
I have heard about oil cooler issues being mistaken for head gaskets. Is there any way to be sure that is what it is? I have also heard of these engines doing 2-400k miles so I also don't think it is a high mileage. What 'specifically' should I ask the mechanic about his test to identify if it is truly proven to be the head gasket?

I do tend to trust the mechanic; certainly he would never knowingly mislead and they have been extremely good so far (for many years). BUT of course they are not Audi and they don't see many of my car - and as he says he has never seen one with a blown head gasket as they don't tend to go. If he gets a tough issue he tends to rely on Audi advice.

So if there is a possibility he is wrong how can we prove it is the oil cooler and not the Head Gasket (now you have my attention!).

Thank again!

 

[iwaters]

The radiator is fixed now is it? If so are you loosing coolant now? When the engine is running is there a lot of white smoke/steam coming from the exhaust, it is hard to tell particlaurly at this time of year but it would be excessive.

Ask the garage what results for the compression test were, they should be between 9 and 14 Bar per cylinder, 7.5 is the wear limit. There is a permissible difference between all cylinders of 3 Bar.

If they suspect HG failure ask them to do a sniff test. This tests for combustion gases in the coolant system.

 

[nervousamateur]

The radiator is fixed now is it? If so are you loosing coolant now? When the engine is running is there a lot of white smoke/steam coming from the exhaust, it is hard to tell particlaurly at this time of year but it would be excessive.

Ask the garage what results for the compression test were, they should be between 9 and 14 Bar per cylinder, 7.5 is the wear limit. There is a permissible difference between all cylinders of 3 Bar.

If they suspect HG failure ask them to do a sniff test. This tests for combustion gases in the coolant system.

Just spoke to mechanic. He was very aware of the oil cooler scenario. He said they did a sniff test and almost immediately showed hydrocarbons (combustion gases) in the coolant. He was pretty confident the gasket is blown.

Radiator is temporarily mended with radweld. System is not leaking; but has not been driven since problem either.

 

[Mursal]

Hi, if you want an idea of the type of work involved there is another thread where a guy changed a gasket on an A4 20 valve recently.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=250932

First:
1. Disconnect the coolant pipes form the oil cooler (join them together with a piece of copper pipe) and drive car as normal. Cooler probably under oil filter? You may have to flush out header tank to get rid of all oil contamination (fairy liquid and hot water).
2. If the oil reappears in large volumes in the header tank probably head gasket. Find out from mechanic which head he thinks needs to come off. No need to touch the other head in my opinion. Mark all pulleys and belts as you strip. Haynes manual may be worth a look. probably have to skim head, but you may be lucky.
3. Unfortunately the rad-weld may have partially fixed the head gasket along with the radiator, so just be aware the problem might get worse as you drive. Do short local journeys to see if the problem reappears. have coolant/water with you to replenish, don't let her overheat.

4. We have a 1979 Audi 80 in everyday use so I think it will be worth fixing, as long as you can keep the bill small.

Keep in touch

 

[iwaters]

In that case it does sound like the HG has gone. So I guess it is back to your original question as to how easy this is to do yourself and is it worth it?

The parts you need are not going to be very expensive so if you did the work yourself then it probably is worth doing. The only thing is the cost of the timing tools, but you could try risking it without them. As I said you can make some of your own tools or use the marking route. The hardest part is when you tension the belt stopping the cams from moving.