Balancing rads

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To get the l2 deg. differential betw. flow & return of the nearest rad to the boiler the l/s valve has to be almost closed, at which point there is a whistling/hissing noise. Any suggestions? Is the differential supposed to be constant. It seems that at first there is a huge difference (at the boiler as well) but after the heating has been on a while the gap closes.

I have been reading some old posts re radiator thermostats and digital devices,l infrared pyrometers. Do I understand that the laser things only work on painted surfaces? If so, what do I do about the unpainted pipes in the cellar if I want to check the differential there? The clip on thermometers aren't accurate.
 
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Read IN HERE for balancing.

There really is no need for a diyer to use the clip on thermostats.

As long as you can get all the rads equally hot, you have achieved your aim. :D
 
But I understand it is important to achieve a 12 deg. differential betw. flow and return pipes. What I don't understand is why at some times, without touching anything, the difference is pronounced and at others is negligible. And that's with the tvs fully open. Maybe it depends wh. the h.w. circuit (on the same pump as the heating) or both heating zones are calling for heat. I just don't seem to be able to achieve a constant differential or constant flow temperature. How much variation should there be in the flow temperature from the boiler?
 
You won't get it constant. The various trv's are doing their thing, the boiler's warming up, etc.
As long as you get enough flow to every rad to get it good and hot then be happy! If you achieved that then turned every rad down in tiny steps to get the differential correct, then you'd be getting best efficiency,
 
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I don't have a Christmas tree, let alone any Christmas lights and I turn off any lights in the house that are not essential. However, that's not the issue here (though our gas bills are high) I'm trying to get the damn system to operate properly without making a racket with boiler kettling and the boiler doing stop start, literally within seconds, over and over again, and all sorts of ticking noises in pipes and rads.

Chris R: I've finally given up and called in Br. Gas to sort out the MV problem. If they have to drain down, which I expect they will, will they have to rebalance the system and replace inhibitor etc? They will probably condemn the whole installation and then I really will take an overdose of anti-depressants.
 
i would be depressed if i had to get bg in, even if they did not condemn the boiler
 
Read IN HERE for balancing.

Dear Bahco
Read all the various threads on balancing and feel confused. I wondered if you could advise on the following as you've been so helpful before. My system heats up perfectly.

Meaning that all the rads heat up at the same time although they do take a long time as they are the old school column rads style which I believe hold a lot of water.

My question is when I've measured the incoming and outgoing temps to balance the system using an infrared thermometer, the flow and return temps are almost the same all the way round despite the wheel being cranked down to 1/4 turn on some and fully open on others.

As I said the system heats up evenly and all the rads get equally hot. Is there any negative effects to having an even flow and return temp in which case I can go round and turn them down or should I just leave them. if theres no negatives Id rather leave well alone.

Ive read various postings about the need for flow and return at the boiler to be a certain difference other wise the boiler wont condense and will modulate blah blah. thanks in advance! bt the way I have a Vaillant Ecomax 630 on alrge system (17 old school style column rads).
 
My system heats up perfectly

:D

Don't fix what isn't broke! :LOL: The whole idea of balancing is to achieve ALL the rads to heat up evenly.

If it is taking its time to heat up then you may have a sludge problem or pipe bore is too small to feed rads properly.
 

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