BANG!!

[plugwash]

well a 4 way chock block rather than a 3 way would be a start although you would still have to put multiple wires in one terminal

 

[kai]

Personally, I would put the original ceiling rose in new place inside the ceiling void, so it acts as a junction box, and run short length of minimum 6amp or 10amp flex to the light fitting (depending on your circuit MCB rating), and do it that way, safer and neater - recycles old ceiling rose too.

 

[plugwash]

that requires access from above though which can be a pita

chockboxes with crimps are the best way if access from above is hard imo

 

[AdamW]

Not entirely related to this, but points out the need for access to ceiling fittings. I replaced a pullcord lightswitch in my parents' shower room this morning. After fixing it in place I connected up the earth and L1 connectors no problem. Then I went to do the Common, and realised that the slug screw, which was tightened up from the side instead of the top, was on the "wrong" side... So I had to remove the switch and refit the other way.

Not too much of a hassle but something so simple can be annoying!

I have done lights for myself and my parents with both a JB acting as a rose in the void, and with the original ceiling rose left in place with the fitting over the top. The latter is easier (when space in the fitting permits) but the former just seems to be more correct to me. Personal preference entirely.

 

[ChrisRogers]

I think the solution to this problem is to wire houses by looping the live in and out of the light switch, then all you have is a single bit of T+E at the rose (2 if it feeds more than one light)

 

[plugwash]

many sparkys already do this on new builds but a lot more dont and most new builds/rewires start with pendants which are slowly replaced

looping in at the rose is the easiest way if you are doing an install that is all roses but as said it makes life harder when people want to fit theese imported fittings

finally while looping in at the switch may be easy enough for single switches i would hate to do it on a triple

the other way is to use a mixture of red and earth and single core double insulated black but i don't know of anywhere that sells theese (maplin used to but afiact don't anymore)

 

[ChrisRogers]

finally while looping in at the switch may be easy enough for single switches i would hate to do it on a triple

quote]

its not too bad, if its 3switches on a single 1 gang plate, use a 35mm deep box

if its 3 switches on a double plate, you've got nothin to worry about!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It would not be rocket science for manufacturers to place a terminal block which matches the connectivity of a ceiling rose where they normally put a bit of 3-way choc-block.

Are such terminal blocks even available (other than integral to roses)?

They would be if every luminaire sold in the UK used them....

 

[Lectrician]

We always loop switches, always use 35mm boxes. If i see one of our blokes with a 16mm box, he gets a slapping 25mm is borderline

 

[securespark]

Lec - How do you manage with back-to-back sitns?

 

[Lectrician]

you cheat - hopefuly they can be 25mm's. If not, stagger them