Barhroom light and switch

[shaun1982]

I've got this set up for a 2 way switch in my kitchen for the switch thats closest to wear im working. Putting in a toilet under the stairs and want to get a light in there and plus the switch for the new light on a double switch from this switch and lights.
I know I need to get a neutral to the new light from the existing light as the isnt a neutral in this switch.
My question is how and where do I take that neutral, is it to the new switch or the light and what should the set up look like in the new switch which will continue to have this 2 way switch but then the new single way switch and supply for the new toilet light. Thank you

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is there a socket near the under stair area? It may be easier to run power from there, through a 3amp FCU.
You can then take the output from the FCU to the new switch in the new loo.

EDIT
Is it your plan to change the existing switch to a 2-gang switch? Or to have a second new switch in the new loo? And…
what light does the existing switch operate?

 

[Murdochcat]

Would it not make sense to include an extractor fan in your plans?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Would it not make sense to include an extractor fan in your plans?

I was coming to that after we've sorted out if the existing switch is for the landing light, etc etc.

 

[SUNRAY]

Is there a socket near the under stair area? It may be easier to run power from there, through a 3amp FCU.
You can then take the output from the FCU to the new switch in the new loo...

A sensible option, if so it may be easier to simply use that as the switch, as I have done for my kitchen under cupboard lights.


I interpret this as wishing to change the pictured switch to a double and a classic example of why I have always attempted to make the brown (or red) wire the permanent live.

Shaun. If that is what you are intending you will require some form of test gear to establish which of those wires if any are permanent live, do you have anything?

As to the neutral, obviousely you will be picking the neutral from an existing light fitting (or other convenient location such as a junction box on the same lighting circuit) and it needs to end up at the new light. It can be run whichever way is best/easiest/least disruptive. Either a direct single neutral between the light fittings OR a neutral to the switch and thence to the light as T&E OR run a single switched live from the switch to the existing light and thence to the new light as T&E.

Red stars indicate joins. And I have not shown earth wires for clarity but an earth must be provided at every accessory.

 

[shaun1982]

Is there a socket near the under stair area? It may be easier to run power from there, through a 3amp FCU.
You can then take the output from the FCU to the new switch in the new loo.

EDIT
Is it your plan to change the existing switch to a 2-gang switch? Or to have a second new switch in the new loo? And…
what light does the existing switch operate?

Hi I have got a socket just where im working. The switch pictured is a 2 way switch that controls the kitchen lights. Other switch is the other end of the kitchen. I want to change the switch I currently have to a double so 1 switch will control whats currently there and the other to independently control the new toilet light. I was looking for the easiest and safest way to get the neutral to the new light as currently there isnt one.

 

[shaun1982]

A sensible option, if so it may be easier to simply use that as the switch, as I have done for my kitchen under cupboard lights.


I interpret this as wishing to change the pictured switch to a double and a classic example of why I have always attempted to make the brown (or red) wire the permanent live.

Shaun. If that is what you are intending you will require some form of test gear to establish which of those wires if any are permanent live, do you have anything?

As to the neutral, obviousely you will be picking the neutral from an existing light fitting (or other convenient location such as a junction box on the same lighting circuit) and it needs to end up at the new light. It can be run whichever way is best/easiest/least disruptive. Either a direct single neutral between the light fittings OR a neutral to the switch and thence to the light as T&E OR run a single switched live from the switch to the existing light and thence to the new light as T&E.View attachment 390771
Red stars indicate joins. And I have not shown earth wires for clarity but an earth must be provided at every accessory.

Hi yes got things to test electrics etc. Which way would you suggest is the best. Access to existing lights at the minute is not a problem ive got access holes in the ceiling already due to moving the current switch from its previous location so I could put up the new stud wall for the toilet. I was thinking of taking the neutral from the light down to the switch and then taking everything from there.

 

[SUNRAY]

Hi yes got things to test electrics etc. Which way would you suggest is the best. Access to existing lights at the minute is not a problem ive got access holes in the ceiling already due to moving the current switch from its previous location so I could put up the new stud wall for the toilet. I was thinking of taking the neutral from the light down to the switch and then taking everything from there.

Any of those options is suitable, as you describe takes the additional joint away from the existing light fitting so does make good sense.

It would probably make sense to pick up the permanent live at the same place if the existing is loop-in at the light.

 

[ericmark]

I would take the supply ceiling rose to ceiling rose. If I could get a cable to switch from ceiling rose great, if not would use a smart bulb.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I wouldn't use the existing switch or lighting circuit at all. You have a suitable power source

I have got a socket just where im working.

Its a simple job to do as I suggest from there. FCU switched spur from the socket( which then is your light switch), and one cable to the WC light.
If you want to mess around with an already working lighting circuit then its up to you, but you'll have to lift floors to run the neutral, etc etc.

Up to you.

 

[shaun1982]

I wouldn't use the existing switch or lighting circuit at all. You have a suitable power source

Its a simple job to do as I suggest from there. FCU switched spur from the socket( which then is your light switch), and one cable to the WC light.
If you want to mess around with an already working lighting circuit then its up to you, but you'll have to lift floors to run the neutral, etc etc.

Up to you.

Ok thanks so im taking power from the socket to the 3amp fused spur that will be the light switch and then power from that to the lights. Easy enough from there to just to put a extractor fan in as well? I had thought about one but my main thing was getting the light sorted first.

 

[Taylortwocities]

. Easy enough from there to just to put a extractor fan in as well

Yes, assuming you can find a way to duct outside.

 

[shaun1982]

Yes, assuming you can find a way to duct outside.

Yes ducting is not a problem. To make the extractor come on with the light what's the best way of doing this with what will be my set up ?

 

[Taylortwocities]

As there’s no windows you’ll need a timer fan.
CBA to do a posh drawing. Wire something like this…

 

[shaun1982]

As there’s no windows you’ll need a timer fan.
CBA to do a posh drawing. Wire something like this…
View attachment 390818

Perfect thank you makes sense