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basin waste water noisy when it hits soil pipe

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Stupida, 3 Oct 2019.

  1. Stupida

    Stupida

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    Recently plumbed a new soil pipe into bathroom to fit a toilet (previously no toilet).

    The 32mm waste is connected into the top of the vertical section of the soil pipe with the 110 for the toilet running parole underneath it (see pic)


    noisy waste.jpg
    The problem is when the basin is used the waste water makes quite a noise as it enters the main soil pipe. I think it is splashing at the bend below, a drop of about 600mm.

    Other than blanking the top and fitting a boss to the horizontal 110 pipe is there anything to be done to stop the splashing noises?
     
  2. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    What is the white waste pipe sticking up with a tissue in the end, and where does the soil go after that bottom bend? There are options available to sort the waste, that is the easy bit, I'd be more concerned with making sure the soil pipe run is correct before altering anything else just yet.
     
  3. Stupida

    Stupida

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    After the bottom bend, the run goes through an internal honeycomb wall then after 300mm into a tee. The tee bottom drops into a bend that connects to the the clay soil pipe and the other leg of the tee connects to the guest toilet.

    The connection with the tissue in is for the shower, it is connected to a 110 bend that joins the vertical pipe about halfway up (another tee).

    Everything is flowing down towards the clay outlet so I assume the flow is ok?

    I just want to reduce the noise from the free falling basin waste water.
     

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  4. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    Everything is flowing for now, but I have to wonder how long for... I'd suggest you get rid of that junction at the bottom of the pic, and at very least swap it for a bend, then turn that bend towards the left, and put a 45° bend in it to bring the stack up in the corner. As it stands you run the risk of discharge from the WC building up in the back of the junction when it hits the bottom of the pipe. Get rid of the orange boss connection in the top of the junction, continue that up to above basin level, and fit an Air Admittance Valve. The whole lot can then be boxed in, although what access do you have for rodding if it were to block?

    Re run your wastes, ideally under the floor space, and connect into the vertical section with a boss. Looking at what's there, it doesn't look like a sealed fitting where your shower connection goes into the 110mm, the last thing you want is it leaking, (or flooding if the pipe blocks) under the floor. It must be sealed pipework.
     
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  5. Stupida

    Stupida

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    There is a wall going in front of the plumbing above floor level. Geberet toilet and basin Frames etc.

    There is a stink pipe outside the toilet window with a meshed globe cage on top, isn't that taking care of the air?

    When you say sealed pipe do you mean solvent welded?

    I can't really change the tee at the bottom now as I have replaced the bricks around it and the other side of the wall is now the guest toilet with a floor over everything (see pic).

    OMG what have I done?
     

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  6. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    By sealed I mean either push fit soil, or solvent welded joints. I cant see the drain adaptor you've used under the floor space where the white waste is connecting, but this must be of a rigid type, that cannot come apart if there is any pressure in the drain. The orange version you have above would be better used in that situation. If there is ventilation outside you may get away with it, but the golden rule is air behind water, with 2 WC's on that run, there is a risk of traps being pulled if the pipework runs full.

    I am afraid what you may have done is gone ahead without checking the arrangement would be acceptable first. I'm not saying it wont work, all I am doing is looking for potential pitfalls in future. Were it to block, how are you going to get in there to rod or jet it without firstly pulling the room to pieces, and secondly, without creating an unholy mess....?
     
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  7. Stupida

    Stupida

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    I will change the top so it gets an air admittance valve and that will also take care of the basin waste free falling noisily if I re-connect it to a boss on the side of the extra stack.

    The bottom connector does at least have a slight fall towards the clay.

    The shower will be 50mm solvent weld up to the 110 then it will be a compression to join to the 110.

    The toilet is a short 90mm to 110mm connector so hopefully if it gets clogged it will be at that point.

    Access to “below floor” will be via a hatch in the next room. Not ideal but I was hoping to never need it.

    Any issues above floor level then I will have to keyhole in and repair any damage post repair :(

    I am using John Guest push fit connectors and copper pipe. John Guest are guaranteed for fifty years.

    I know the installation isn’t ideal for remedial works but it looks great when finished.

    I would rather leave all plumbing on show but my other half would sack me
     
  8. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    Dare I ask if Building Control have been consulted?
     
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  9. Stupida

    Stupida

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    Who are they?

    Lol only joking. Yes the architect submitted plans when we had the main extension drawn up.
     
  10. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    That's a start, at least the theory has been approved! :rolleyes:
     
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