Bathroom light switch turns on bedroom lights

[transducer]

Can someone please help.

I have in my bathroom a set of LV halogen lamps x6 & pull cord switch
I have in my bedroom 5 x Mains downlighters & remote control dimmer

The problem is sometimes, not always when the bathroom lights are turned on the bedroom lights come on also.

This also happens when the lights are turned off in the bathroom, the bedroom lights come on.

The radial feed is bathroom 1st then onto the bedroom

Could this be the work of inductance as the two switches are close to each other

I only got this problem when I changed the normal switch in the bedroom to this remote control dimmer (B&Q)

I know the easiest way to solve this is to change the light switch in the bedroom back to the original but that is cheating. I want to know why?
Plus the remote dimmer is good for being lazy. Not so good at 0400 when the kids go to the toilet & the bedroom is instantly floodlit

 

[pdcelec]

You have the switched live and permanent live mixed up in the switch that you changed (probably).

 

[transducer]

Thanks for the reply pdcelec.

I understand what you mean. But why would that make a difference as to which way round the L & SL are in the dimmer?

 

[breezer]

i bet its induction

 

[mapj1]

The electronics in the dimmer is being triggered by the shock of the bath- room lights coming on, and interprets the pulse as if it had been from the momentary acting remote control. Essentially a bad EMC design.
Either, as you mention, replace with a real switch (i.e. not an electronic one), or add some suppression. - if removing most of the bathroom lamps (as a test) works, then you know it is set by the inrush current, and either feeding the sensitive bedroom lights from their own spur, or adding an inrush limiter to the line feeding the bathroom, should help.(SG40 in a box anyone?)
The other thing that may help would be some class X capacitance across the offending switch so it doesn't see the high frequency components of any transient. It might be worth contacting the switch makers and seeing if there is a standard fix for such nuisance operation - you are unlikely to be the first.

 

[transducer]

inrush limiter to the line feeding the bathroom, should help.(SG40 in a box anyone?)

What would this inrush limiter do, I mean I can tell it will limit, but limit what and how?

class X capacitance across the offending switch so it doesn't see the high frequency components of any transient.

bit like a filter?

You say go to the manufacturer but it was unbranded from B&Q. Do you think they will understand inductance / capacitance etc on the returns desk!!

mapj1 what do you do in your spare time, work for NASA
You certainly know your S***

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Try swapping the master and slave between locations???

 

[stevesey]

Like mapj I'd say it was noisy switching (caused by the inductance of the LV transformers) - you could try one of these across the bathroom switch http://www.lcrcapacitors.co.uk/fpc4.pdf

 

[transducer]

Ok, Thanks for the advice I will try to get hold of an LCRCapacitor and drop it across the swith in the bathroom..........

Then again I may just put a plastic switch back in there and get a long broom handle as a new remote

Thanks for all your advice !!

 

[mapj1]

mapj1 wrote:
inrush limiter to the line feeding the bathroom, should help.(SG40 in a box anyone?)


What would this inrush limiter do, I mean I can tell it will limit, but limit what and how?


mapj1 wrote:
class X capacitance across the offending switch so it doesn't see the high frequency components of any transient.


bit like a filter?

Sorry, aimed at wrong level again - its hard to tell here, we get a real mix of abilities.
The SG40 is a positive coefficient thermistor. When cold it has a high resistance, and in series with a load, like a cold lamp, it slows down the warm up. As current passes, it warms up, and its resistance falls, by a factor of more than 10, so that it slowly takes itself from "significant current limiter" to "negligible effect". This gives a slow start to any current the load is drawing, so less of a surprise to any other loads sharing the supply. data sheets for common (cheap) sizes here
http://www.rhopointcomponents.com/p...it+Protection&st2=Varistors&ProductWebCode=SG
cheap enough to sprinkle around I find the SG40 good for general use, but as it gets hot, in a metal box mounted on some ceramic terminal block, not dangling loose.


Yes, a class X capacitor is a cap designed for part of a filter, but tested for use across the mains, and extra robust for use in positions where a failure would cause a serious problem see also class Y, for extra safe... ).
Unbranded caps, if they do fail can set fire to the wiring, though in practice I suspect they are often exactly the same caps but without the safety labelling. .http://www.evox-rifa.com/technote_pdf/rfi_fact.pdf

Depends who you get at Band Q, I agree your chances are slim.

and no, I do not work far any american organisation.
best regards though, and let us know what you achieve.