Bathroom Mirror Sensor - to pull chord switch

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Hello. I wonder if you could help please? I have a bathroom mirror with built in illumination and de-mister. It is operated by a motion sensor pad on the right side of the mirror frame. Is it possible (and easy) to use the wiring inside the mirror housing to remove the sensor pad and replace with a pull chord switch? Many Thanks.....
 
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... It is operated by a motion sensor pad on the right side of the mirror frame. Is it possible (and easy) to use the wiring inside the mirror housing to remove the sensor pad and replace with a pull chord switch? Many Thanks.....
It is certainly theoretically possible (you would simply be changing one sort of switch for another). How 'easy', or even practicable, it would be depends entirely on the product - and one can't really generalise.

Can you easily take it apart to the extent of seeing how things are arranged (and maybe post photos)?

Kind Regards, John
 
Thank you for your reply JohnW2 . I haven't taken it apart yet, but can do quite easily. I will do that this weekend and take a photo or two. Thanks again...
 
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Hi, please see attached the wiring of the mirror. I would like to replace the infrared sensor switch with a pull chord switch. The wiring to the infrared switch comes from the central control box to the lower right hand side ( marked with a bit of red tape ). I had hoped I could snip the wires and connect to a pull chord switch, but I notice there are 3 strands of wire from the control box to the infrared switch, but only two connection points on my pull chord switch. Is this change over still possible? Many Thanks. Wayne
 

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Can you just confirm, the lettering on the bottom white box is identical to this...

http://www.savemylight.co.uk/light-switches/sensor/hzk218c.html

...because you've managed to cover over a very important bit with the black cable, which is the "rated current"! :p

Anyway, I'm pretty sure these remote IR sensors are not as simple as the three wires being 'positive', 'negative' and 'trigger'. I believe you would need an oscilloscope to be able to check for certain! :eek: In which case, your best bet is to bypass that "electronic IR sensor switch" module altogether. This is how what you've got is wired up...

LEDmirrordemisterPIR.jpg


You would need to fit a pull switch rated for 250v AC and the correct Amps or higher. Then you'd need to extend the cables "Incoming power" and "Outgoing to LED driver" to where the pull switch is going to fit. "Cable to demister" will probably reach depending on how the cover/mirror is fitted, but that will also need to be connected to the pull switch, rather than where it is now. Cable "To LEDs" won't need to change at all.

The 3 neutrals you'll have will all connect together in a choc block. The two terminals on the pull switch will need the live from "Incoming power" in one of the terminals and both the live from "Outgoing to LED driver" and the live from "Cable to demister" will go together in the other terminal of the pull switch.
 
Hi Rsgaz, Thank you very much for the response, I appreciate your help and thoughts. I can confirm the white box on my mirror is the same as the link you provided. I did fear it may not be as simple as I had hoped. I guess the option to re-wire to more of a direct from the mains option with a 240V pull switch is the way forward bypassing the white box / switch module. Again, Thank you for explaining the wiring requirement to make this option work. Looks like I've made myself a new project. Regards, Wayne
 
the way forward bypassing the white box / switch module.

If there is a loft above and you have access to the Twin & Earth cable which supplies this mirror, you can simplify the connections inside this mirror if you were happy to have a 'normal' pull cord screwed to the ceiling.
 
Hi Rsgaz, Yes, I do have access to the loft and the cable supplying the mirror. I could add a pull cord from the ceiling. I would just need to ensure the infra red sensor is isolated and the internal wiring of the mirror set up in a way that relates to the ceiling pull cord switch.
 
Just not sure how to set up the internal wiring of the mirror ???

Take the cables out of the IR module and join all the lives and join all the neutrals with terminal block, so all of it is 'always on'.

LEDmirrordemisterPIR2.jpg


You could even use two Wago 221-413 to join the wires to make it easier.
 
Brilliant! Thank you again. That's the route I'll follow. Very helpful and very much appreciated..... As it happens I'm away today for a couple of weeks, but will do it when I return and post a 'working' photo. Thanks again :)
 
To rsgaz. Just a quick note to say Thank You! once more. Finally got around to doing the job yesterday. The instructions you provided were spot on (and simple) and it looks and works a treat. I would post a photo but sadly my phone has broken. Best..... Wayne
 
Can you just confirm, the lettering on the bottom white box is identical to this...

http://www.savemylight.co.uk/light-switches/sensor/hzk218c.html

...because you've managed to cover over a very important bit with the black cable, which is the "rated current"! :p

Anyway, I'm pretty sure these remote IR sensors are not as simple as the three wires being 'positive', 'negative' and 'trigger'. I believe you would need an oscilloscope to be able to check for certain! :eek: In which case, your best bet is to bypass that "electronic IR sensor switch" module altogether. This is how what you've got is wired up...

View attachment 158639

You would need to fit a pull switch rated for 250v AC and the correct Amps or higher. Then you'd need to extend the cables "Incoming power" and "Outgoing to LED driver" to where the pull switch is going to fit. "Cable to demister" will probably reach depending on how the cover/mirror is fitted, but that will also need to be connected to the pull switch, rather than where it is now. Cable "To LEDs" won't need to change at all.

The 3 neutrals you'll have will all connect together in a choc block. The two terminals on the pull switch will need the live from "Incoming power" in one of the terminals and both the live from "Outgoing to LED driver" and the live from "Cable to demister" will go together in the other terminal of the pull switch.

Mistake, please delete.
 
So you are suggesting putting what appears to be a 12 volt demister on to the 240 volt supply!

No, you are wrong. The output from that PIR module is 230v, so it's always had a 230v supply.
 

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