Bathroom tiled floor-ceiling. How would you deal with it?

[PhilM82]

Hi all

My bathroom is currently tiled floor to ceiling. The standard of the job is ok (and the tiles are just about ok on the style front too) but I have many (15+) holes left in various tiles around the room due to previous fittings such as towel rails, electric heaters etc. I'm also looking at replacing the current shower cubicle with a bath and I suspect this will leave me with a few more holes to deal with. I don't fancy trying to fill the holes, and I can't source matching tiles so I was intending to remove the tiles. I know this will damage the plasterboard and the common suggestion seems to be "replace the whole board".

The problem I face is that one of the walls is of laminated plasterboard construction - 12mm+25mm+12mm This also happens to be the wall that the bath will run along. Ideally I'd like to use either a cement board or MR PB, but how would I go about over-boarding it when I have nothing but plasterboard to fix too? There are no vertical studs in these walls, only a top and sole plate. The other walls are dot n dab PB onto block.

Should I cross my fingers, attempt to gently remove the tiles and have the wall skimmed instead? From what I can see behind the shower it looks like it might have been tiled on top of the existing wallpaper. The other side of the wall is finished and forms part of my bedroom - pretty much the only finished room in the house so far.

The only saving grace is that it isn't a Paramount wall - came across that stuff during my time as a Sparky and it was a nightmare

Thanks in advance

 

[clive12345]

If you can get the old tiles off, without damaging the plasterboard too much.
You could laminate another plasterboard onto the existing laminate wall.
It would then be 12mm+25mm+12mm plus 12 or12mm+25mm+12mm
plus 9mm.
To laminate use bonding compound . Knock it up a little bit thicker than skimming ,give it a 2mm coat .Then go over it with a notched tile trowel.

 

[ree]

If you have tiles on plasterboard on a wet wall then, according to best modern practice, thats "wrong" for starters. Plus, the in place tile is already on a shaky surface.

You say that its not Paramount but its freestanding bar a top and bottom plate?

If you've not yet first fixed the bath tub into position then perhaps have a re-think about using this material as a wall. By the time you've messed about with it you could have framed up some studding with p/b on one side and backer board on the other.

Doing it as a paid job no way would we take a risk on any future movement in the wall or tile - or even the tub. Commercial work with partitioning is different.

Perhaps, if you post some pics it would help.

 

[PhilM82]

Untitled

• PhilM82
• 26 Nov 2014
• 1

There's a pic of the bedroom wall which is of the same construction

 

[roy c]

Are the walls solid and no movement in them? If so and you have enough space to do so then you may be able to tile over the lot!! I know a lot of people will "Poo Poo" this idea but I have done it years ago with no problems, and also the way I did it was dab the tiles on with silicon dabs!! Shock Horror !!! But I may add this was done on the "dry" plaster board walls where there was no water penetration or wet areas,, This may help you out on the walls that are solid, and on the wall where you are putting a bath may have to be stripped off and backer board dabbed on and fixed with with mechanical fixtures. This is just an idea ,and like I said people will "poo poo" the idea but I have done it in my own bathroom with the 5 spot silicon method (dry areas) and it is quick and withstands the test of time!! Mine was done 16 years ago and they are still there! So think out of the box and have a go ( I eagerly wait for the non believers flak )...

 

[stevethespreader]

Why don't you show a pic of the bathroom instead of the bedroom?