Baxi 105e combi water leak

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From what I can tell, the leak seems to be coming from the DHW heat exchanger where the pipes enter / exit, right at the back of the boiler.
The joints only appear to be clipped together so I guess there are 'o' rings in there.
To repair this, does the boiler need to come off the wall? Access seems hellish.
I'm project managing this one for a friend, and I'd just like to know what he's up against.
Thanks for any replies!
John :)
 
forgive my ignorance i dont know if your registered or not but as this will entail opening the combustion chamber. this will need an rgi. and yes they are o rings.
 
How can anyone manage a project if they have to rely on advice on a DIY forum??

Do you remember Bamber Gaspipe?
 
Thank you for your replies......I'm not Gas safe registered and there's no way I'd be attempting the repair anyway!
I'm looking after the (empty) house for a friend while he is overseas. I noticed the pressure was zero one day and when I refilled the boiler I noticed the leak - although once it became warm the leak stopped.
So, by the term 'managing the project', I have to decide whether to have the boiler repaired or replaced. Its getting on a bit and if the labour charge is likely to be high, that answer is immediately obvious.
John
 
If its leaking from the bit with the silver push on clips this is the auto bypass 2 O rings at about a quid each job takes less than 20 minutes and is straight forward
no need to empty system just isolate boiler
 
If its leaking from the bit with the silver push on clips this is the auto bypass 2 O rings at about a quid each job takes less than 20 minutes and is straight forward
no need to empty system just isolate boiler

More likely as the system in loosing pressure.

But the plate to plate is difficult if the boiler has no left hand clearence. Its a 45 min job for me with good access.
 
oops. got dhw heat ex, mixed up with main. anyway. these things need o rings ready for the parts you don't even disturb. so get a good selection ready
 
oops. got dhw heat ex, mixed up with main. anyway. these things need o rings ready for the parts you don't even disturb. so get a good selection ready

Yep..... :shock: And generic ones wont fit if it leaks. Last time I did a plate to plate the main heat ex o rings leaked. God knows how, but they did - both the flow and return.
 
had that just doing a divertor change.and the pump o rings leaked as well. i lost the will to live after that one. :cry:
 
Right, and thanks for sharing the expertise with me, gents.....
The leak is on the left side, and looking above the flow / return pipes etc I can see a copper pipe going into the DHW heat exchanger (looks smaller than 15mm but probably isn't) which is clipped into place.
I just can't see any way of getting in there to effect a repair - hence my query about the boiler coming off the wall.
Its not going to my problem anyway but I just like to know!
I'm trying to assess the age of the thing - there's a sticker on the pcb cover that says 1989, but a label inside the drop down flap says 07/00.....either way it owes the owner nowt!
Thanks and good evening
John :)
 
lets just say i'v never had to take the boiler of the wall on a normal or instant model. to do any work on the hydroblock. they can be awkward and as mentioned entail opening up the combustion chamber to get at various other o rings that will need at least checking. so if i were you. tell your mate or who ever, to get someone in that has the patience. e.g heateam.
 
Thanks for that, Holty....I've just been looking at an exploded diagram on the net, and the problem seems to be at the back, against the wall, of the plate heat exchanger.
I can appreciate the 4 seals that connect the plate to the manifolds but my problem seems to be on the other side - where I assume the bypass to be (namsag).
Cheers
John :)
 
Misterdubya . 45 Mins for a plate ??? it doesnt mater what clearance you have either side you just wiggle it past the gas valve once drained it is literally a 1 minute job out and same back in. If not changing seals
 
probably 44 mins then trying to dry out the pcb with a hair dyer then. :wink:
 

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