Baxi 105e Primary Circuit

[robbierazz]

Could I shut the radiator valves off prior to draining system in order to minimise loss of inhibitor that's already in the system?

Of course, I would make a not of the existing valve settings to ensure that correct balance of the system is maintained.

Is this feasible, or would the entire CH system need to be drained?

Many thanks,
Rob.

 

[Vic Spanner]

Stop fluffing about, Turn the isolation valves off,Drain boiler and changed the bloody thing...As per replys you have had.

 

[robbierazz]

Poxi, no need for that response.

The thing is that I seem to be getting contradicting information from people, i.e. some say just turn off iso valves to boiler, drain using drain point on side of boiler, fit new manifold, refill system to around 1bar and then switch boiler on. Others says, drain the entire system and then add inhibitor when refilling.

I just want to know which is right, i.e whether it was necessary to drain the entire CH system Please clarify this then I will happily just get on and do it.

Thanks,
Rob.

 

[robbierazz]

No one??

 

[robbierazz]

Will no one confirm for me whether I can isolate and drain just the boiler, in order to preserve the inhibitor that's already in the system?

Since I only had the inhibitor added in September of last year it would be silly to drain the whole system unless absolutely necessary.

I would really appreciate someone confirming this.

Thanks,
Rob.

 

[Baxmax]

Get Heateam on the case...

 

[bster]

isolate and drain the boiler ....yes


I am an apprentice though

 

[baxpoti]

Will no one confirm for me whether I can isolate and drain just the boiler

That's what the isolation taps are there for.

 

[robbierazz]

Hi Baxpoti,

I know what the isolation taps are for. What confused me slightly was talk of needing to add inhibitor to the system when refilling, as I assumed this wouldn't be required if just draining the boiler alone and not the entire CH system.

I suppose my question should have been, 'Is the addition of Inhibitor only required if draining the entire system?' This of course assumes there is Inhibitor already in the system.

Anyway, thanks for that, it's all I wanted to know.

Rob.

 

[baxpoti]

Are you ever going to get this sorted?

Its been a month now!

 

[robbierazz]

Hi Baxpoti,

I removed the old diverter valve manifold at the weekend and fitted the new one.

However, when turning water valves back on, there was a drip coming from where the heat flow pipe connects to the manifold, even though I fitted a new 3/4 fibre washer. I did carefully remove the old washer from the mating face, but could it possibly be that the mating surfaces are not completely clean and level?

Anyway, I am getting a corgi chap in to look at it as I can't understand why it's still dripping, it has been done up pretty tight but not over tightened though!

Thanks again for everyone's help and advice on here, and even though it isn't sorted completely yet I have learnt a great deal in trying to do it.

Thanks,
Rob.

 

[Dripdoctor]

Hi, just in case it's of any use to anyone in future, the instructions in the Potterton manual for removing the diverter valve are not quite correct: the lower CH flow pipe must be disconnected before yanking it out!

http://www.potterton.co.uk/docs/Potterton_Performa_30_HE_Installation_and_Service_Instructions.pdf

Just replaced the diverter valve diaphragms and pushrods on one of these today, the only nightmare which they don't warn you about is getting water in the PCB area, really the manufacturer should have put a seal around the cover to prevent water ingress but given that they don't I recommend dismantling the hinge and hanging the PCB etc out of the way when u start to dismantle as it can easily spill off the lower plate onto the electrics.

Trust me, I was lucky and managed to remove the board and dry it with compressed air before I started it up.

Oh, and the plate heat exchanger has some very sharp edges when you're pushing the bypass pipe back on (I have the scars to prove it!!).

As per usual on these things you'll need screwdrivers and spanners which are about a gnats dangler shorter than the ones you have in order to get the clearance!!

Hope this helps!