BAXI 231711 PCB - SOLO 2

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Hi,

The PCB on my Baxi has fired, burning a small hole through the housing and blowing the fuse at the wall.
I have ordered a new PCB which arrives next week, in the meantime I have been looking at the old one and working out that if it is just a control board swap then I only need disconect the wires to acheive this.

Has anyone else done this and how did it turn out, is it a DIY task, as far as I can see there is no need to involve any work with gas? By the way I struggle to afford a heating engineer.

Thanks
Dave
 
Risk is that something other than the board may have cause the board to fail, so you'd want to test everything else first. You can do work on your own boiler if you're "competent" - which is undefined.
 
I am not sure about this "strugling to affford a heating engineer".

Certainly you should be able to manage to replace the PCB.

There is a risk that you might have a faulty gas valve for example which has blown the PCB which a competent boiler engineer would check.

Only yesterday I had to replace an expensive PCB which had been blown by a faulty fan lead although there was no visible sign of any problem with the lead. It even tested at above 10 MOhms using a low voltage tester!

Tony
 
Agile said:
I am not sure about this "strugling to affford a heating engineer".

For the card and installation I have been priced at £350, when you are on a student grant that is a huge amount, especially when I have got the PCB from Ebay for £45 opposed to the £175 from the local supplier.

An engineer called and said it was the board, just by looking at the burn out on it, so even if it is something causing the board to blow then I will be in the same position as I am now. I would rather take a £45 risk on it just being age and wear on the board.

I was just wonderin if the PCB was easy enough to swap without messing with gas, it appears to be all electrical.

Thanks
 
£350 seems rather high to me!

We would charge £84 plus the trade cost of the PCB ( about £90 perhaps ? )

Its simple enough to change but there is always a risk that there is another component failed first!

Tony
 
Have changed the PCB, all seems okay, but still not working, before I call a plumber have you any ideas

When I set the 'run' control to 24 hours I can hear the fan running, but it does not sound like it is in the boiler.
Problem is I cannot see any flame and the lights on the PCB are not lighting up, I can hear power going to the pcb as it clicks but then goes silent.
I wired it up the same way as the other one came out...

Is there a further problem or is it a pilot problem?

Thanks so far
 
Sorry, the clicking (double) is in the boiler, near the bottom above the PCB, it seems like it is trying to ignite.
 
Don't know if anyone is reading this, probably best to get an engineer (not easy in the North of Scotland), but the clicking is on the board.

Turning it on and off causes a small amber light to go on and off (behind the multi pin connectors) yet none of the control lights come on - could this new board be faulty.

Sometimes after much on and off it does start to fire up, but then it sounds like the board trips out again, and returns to its dead state???
 
Have changed the PCB, all seems okay, but still not working, before I call a plumber have you any ideas

When I set the 'run' control to 24 hours I can hear the fan running, but it does not sound like it is in the boiler.
Problem is I cannot see any flame and the lights on the PCB are not lighting up, I can hear power going to the pcb as it clicks but then goes silent.
I wired it up the same way as the other one came out...

Is there a further problem or is it a pilot problem?

Thanks so far
this is solutions from baxi faultfinder (pdf)
Check and correct if necessary
1. Ignition electrode and lead
2. Electrode connection
3. Spark gap and position
230V at Main PCB - A1
connector across terminals
3 & 5. Check wiring

Replace gas valve
electrical plug &
igniter assembly

Check terminal 1 of ON/OFF/RESET selector is in
connection with PCB - A4 connector terminal 2
Check electrical continuity across terminals 1 & a on reset
selector when turned to ‘Reset’ position
Replace ON/OFF/RESET selector
 

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