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Baxi solo 2 pf 60
“Boiler on” light is lit.
“Fan on” light comes on for half a second, then switches off for a second, then comes on for half a second, then repeats ad infinitum. The fan comes on in time with the “Fan on” light.
Needless to say the boiler is not igniting.
The fan is getting power and I have visually checked it is spinning (when the “Fan on” light is on).
The pressure switch is activating when the fan is spinning. When the fan is spinning there is 240v (briefly) between the white/grey wires, when the fan is not spinning there is 240v between the white/black wires. This is consistent with the white wire (pole) of the switch switching to the grey terminal when the switch is activated. So I don’t think it’s the pressure switch faulty.
It has exhibited this fault intermittently over the last few years – “wiggling” the PCB box/wires “cured” it (usually for a few weeks or months).
Before I replace the PCB I would like to eliminate any other possibilities I can. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not, next step I think is to remove PCB, check/re-make all connections and if that fails fit new PCB. I just want to build some confidence I won’t be throwing my money away.
I had the PCB replaced about 5 years ago but it could well have failed again; I gather they are not that reliable.
As an aside, could anyone explain briefly what the pressure switch does? Is it a safety feature to cut off the boiler if the fan isn’t running (and activating the switch)?
Many thanks for any advice.
Martin
“Boiler on” light is lit.
“Fan on” light comes on for half a second, then switches off for a second, then comes on for half a second, then repeats ad infinitum. The fan comes on in time with the “Fan on” light.
Needless to say the boiler is not igniting.
The fan is getting power and I have visually checked it is spinning (when the “Fan on” light is on).
The pressure switch is activating when the fan is spinning. When the fan is spinning there is 240v (briefly) between the white/grey wires, when the fan is not spinning there is 240v between the white/black wires. This is consistent with the white wire (pole) of the switch switching to the grey terminal when the switch is activated. So I don’t think it’s the pressure switch faulty.
It has exhibited this fault intermittently over the last few years – “wiggling” the PCB box/wires “cured” it (usually for a few weeks or months).
Before I replace the PCB I would like to eliminate any other possibilities I can. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not, next step I think is to remove PCB, check/re-make all connections and if that fails fit new PCB. I just want to build some confidence I won’t be throwing my money away.
I had the PCB replaced about 5 years ago but it could well have failed again; I gather they are not that reliable.
As an aside, could anyone explain briefly what the pressure switch does? Is it a safety feature to cut off the boiler if the fan isn’t running (and activating the switch)?
Many thanks for any advice.
Martin
