When you bead a single pane window from the outside, do you bead tight to the glass or do you leave a gap and fill will putty?
-
Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.
Beading Timber Frame Window
- Thread starter Adam78
- Start date
-
- Tags
- beading timber frame
timber beads?
small bead of silicone in 4 corners before glass goes in -stops water getting to joint
bed glass on thin layer of silicone.
apply even bead of silicone all round in corner where glass meets timber.
On bottom bead do second bead along bottom of glass just below where edge of bead will go.
paint ends of beads beforehand
silicone mitres
put beads in short ones first.
push beads in hard to spread mastic
bottom bead -aim for silicone to squeeze out along length of bead at join with glass -this point is vulnerable to water ingress.
small bead of silicone in 4 corners before glass goes in -stops water getting to joint
bed glass on thin layer of silicone.
apply even bead of silicone all round in corner where glass meets timber.
On bottom bead do second bead along bottom of glass just below where edge of bead will go.
paint ends of beads beforehand
silicone mitres
put beads in short ones first.
push beads in hard to spread mastic
bottom bead -aim for silicone to squeeze out along length of bead at join with glass -this point is vulnerable to water ingress.
Yes this is for timber for a simple concrete garage window where the beads have rotted. The glass is already inside i just need to replace the beading.
I've got some beveled beading 15mmx12mm
What type of silicon do i use.
I though you nailed the beading down with panel pins and then put putty in the gap between the beading and glass - is that not how you should do it - no nails?
What type of silicone do i use, can you recommend a brand or link to where i can buy.
Many thanks.
I've recently been using double-sided glazing tape, which goes in the rebate. The glass is pressed against it and becomes very firmly fixed. After which your putty or beading is mostly ornamental and to shed rain. Paint the frame and rebate first.
The tape is made of firm foam and will accommodate slight irregularities. I doubt you'd ever get the glass out without breaking it. You can get various thicknesses and widths.
I can putty-in window glass, but it's not a popular skill any more.
The tape is made of firm foam and will accommodate slight irregularities. I doubt you'd ever get the glass out without breaking it. You can get various thicknesses and widths.
I can putty-in window glass, but it's not a popular skill any more.
You don't. Period.
Paint does not adhere to silicone.
Use a MS polymer. They are as flexible as silicone but can be painted over. They do however cost a little more.
There are numerous options to choose from.
eg
Timbabuild
CT1
Stixall
Sikka
BTW, although they all say they can be painted over, you need to apply a waterbased primer/undercoat first otherwise any oil based paints will take weeks to dry.
As you suggested you will need to nail the wooden beadings to prevent them from bowing/warping. You can either bed them into ms polymer first or run a thin bead after. The former is probably the longer lasting option but you will benefit from having a silicone smoothing tool to hand and decorators wipes for removing "over spill".
Since the trend for 'slimlite' double glazing in heritage / listed properties, face putty work is having a bit of a rennaissance.
Why not just paint the beading and rebate first, pin the beading, fill any gap between beading and glass with linseed oil putty. Once putty is dry re-paint the beading and putty by overlapping the paint on to the glass by 2mm to create a water tight seal?
Some of ms polymer you have mentioned above are still pricey. The cheapest I can find is the everbuild stixall? Does stixall set hard or remain flexible?
Last edited:
some intrestin stuff about external wood beading if you are goin to do it that way.
thing is the safety issue. beading can be dead easy prised off and the glass removed if its not beenback puttyed inside the glass rebate.
plus beading will rot out sooner than later.
just sayin but always pre-paint external joinery before fixing.
linseed putty, the traditional way, is well safe esp if the rebate and a few mm's of glass have been given a lick of tacky paint and push points just before puttying.
belt and braces mixing the putty with some oil paint will give a very hard long lasting job that will take and keep paint.
putty can be used for back puttying or one of the cartridges as above.
thing is the safety issue. beading can be dead easy prised off and the glass removed if its not beenback puttyed inside the glass rebate.
plus beading will rot out sooner than later.
just sayin but always pre-paint external joinery before fixing.
linseed putty, the traditional way, is well safe esp if the rebate and a few mm's of glass have been given a lick of tacky paint and push points just before puttying.
belt and braces mixing the putty with some oil paint will give a very hard long lasting job that will take and keep paint.
putty can be used for back puttying or one of the cartridges as above.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
