Beok Thermostat Dry Contact

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Hi all.
I have read a few threads on here, but can't find a definitive answer unfortunately.
I have a standard twisty dial room stat at the moment, but just purchased a Beok wifi digital type. I have a question about the "Dry contact".
Looking at the diagram the switched live wire will go into terminal 5. Terminal 4 is my issue. Can I link between incoming live at terminal 1 over to terminal 4 of the dry contact?
Thankyou.
 

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There should be a Destruction Manual with it. That should tell you all you need to know including what they actually mean by "Dry Contact", I would tend to assume it is a set of contacts which changes state from Closed to Open etc dependant upon temperature and have no voltage present iny any state but you should confirm this first. It should also explain how to use terminals 6 & 7 (Negative Temperature Coefficient ??) if required.

Never assume anything until you have read through the manual though.
 
Thanks for taking the time. The manual is garbage and gives no info. Help on here is my last resort before it gets returned.
 
Same as ebee says, dry contacts are usually switching something supplied by the boiler. If your old thermostat switched a voltage from the stat to the boiler then I suspect you may have bought the wrong sort of stat. Please supply more info ie. make and model of boiler and old stat. and you may get more help.
 
The boiler is gravity fed Logic H24 Heat2 with Drayton LP722 controller. The original thermostat is in the images.
The new thermostat is a Beok TOL47WIFI-WPB, which i believe is the correct model for my needs

20260113_182627.jpg20260107_201144.jpgMo
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Once upon a day it was a not uncommon practice to wire a programmer from the mains and likewise the output( heating and/or cooling loads) .
However some then started to require voltage free contacts (sometimes called dry contacts) therefore if mains output was actually required the link was put into the programmer there making the thing easy to use on either version.

My guess (only a guess without seeing the manual) is you might have the type that is for either and you might or might not be able to use the NTC terminals 6 & 7 for something optional.
 
Your Beok needs a permanent live and permanent neutral, so you'd need to leave the heating set to constant on the programmer or take a feed from the wiring center. Also looks like existing is a 2 wire thermostat as the blue (possibly neutral) doesn't appear to be connected. If you can figure out all of that then it becomes a case of N, L , link L to 3 and swl 4.

Or if you want super easy opt for a battery operated thermostat
 

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