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Best concrete for VERY heavy large wooden gates?

Discussion in 'In the Garden' started by Tara100, 5 Jul 2018.

  1. Tara100

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    Hi

    One gate is 6ft, and the other 9ft and boy are they heavy!
    I've been advised to use a 6x6" post for the smaller and 7x7" for the larger.

    I have researched how to best sink the posts with ballast etc, but I now need to know about the concrete mix.
    I've read 'Postcrete' isn't very good for heavy gates, as it doesn't have enough aggregate, and not all of the concrete will set, so if you can advise please on what u should buy, I'd be very grateful

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. nuzuki

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    Hi Tara, you might be lucky enough to get away with one bulk bag of ballast and id say around 5-6 bags of cement. If there is an option then make a goalpost type situation to stop the posts bending. you could also sink a brace between the posts under the ground if you were really concerned with longetivity.

    Another option would be brick/block piers going into the ground around 50-100cms reinforced with rebar and hinges sunk into the mortar.

    You will need a line level and a post level to make sure the tops of the posts are at the same height and level vertically. Tamp the bottom of the hole after digging and put a bit of rubble into bottom to encourage water to soak away and not rot the bottom of the post. Some people coat their posts with oil or put them in plastic bags to stop the rot also.

    hope that helps
     
  3. nuzuki

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    Use the post to tamp the bottom of the hole, no need to buy a tamper just for the one job. Collect a few rocks from around the garden to tamp into the bottom of the hole, no need to buy anything special.
     
  4. bernardgreen

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  5. nuzuki

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    Are the measurments of the gates youve given us the width or height? Im guessing width. If you can tell us the gate height we can work out the length of post to use. I personally would match the gate post widths so if you need a max of 7x7inch post for one then go with that for the other. If the gate is nearing 2metres in height then go with 1m or more in the ground.
     
  6. Tara100

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    Hi

    If I can get away with another 7" post the other side, I'll get one. Trouble is, we've got to chip down the corners of two garden walls to put the posts against, and they are made from huge boulder rocks (built turn of the century) The wall edges up to a service lane, and I can't have the posts going out far, as the neighbours cars won't get up and down. It's a logistical nightmare!

    The gates are 6ft and 9ft each, and 4ft high. They are diamond brace farm gates and when delivered we struggled to move them. I believe the holes should be 3ft minimum?

    Thanks!
     
  7. Tara100

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    Thank you everyone for the replies :D

    I shall pass it all onto the two poor souls who will be doing the work (friends of family)
     
  8. nuzuki

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    I have installed one of these very same gates in our field and I went down a metre in clay soil. They should come with adjusters so you can level the gates perfectly after installing (this is normally a threaded bar with a nut on the other side of the wooden post).
     
  9. bernardgreen

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    I would go deeper if there is no beam.
     
  10. Tara100

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    These are the fitting sets I have:
    https://ruby-group.co.uk/collections/gate-ironmongery/products/24-inch-adjustable-hinge-set

    I'm not sure if there's the part you mention in there though!
     
  11. Tara100

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    Hmmm, that'll please the chaps no end :LOL:
     
  12. Tara100

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  13. scbk

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    Each to their own, I don't use concrete, always rammed earth, this is the way farm/field gates are done. If the earth from the hole is really bad then you can bring in some stone/hardcore.

    I just done some double gates, 14ft wide, 7ft high, heavy timber boarding, had to be lifted on with the mini digger.
    The posts are 8-10" round, and in the ground about a metre.
     
  14. Tara100

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    I daren't risk them shifting as kiddies will walk very close by them, plus a neighbours car and van will drive literally two foot away from them too.
     
  15. SFK

    SFK

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    To make concrete you need
    "Ballast" and "Cement".
    wickes is much cheaper than B&Q for this.

    Instructions are on back of Cement, but I would mix 5:1 Ballast:Cement.
    In other words if using bags you mix in 5 bags Ballast with 1 cement.

    As that will kill your back or overfill your cement mixer you can put in say 2.5 bags of ballast and half a bag of cement.

    SFK
     
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