Best Finish - Roller or Brush

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Looking at redecorating whole of flat.
Have 7 flat faced fire doors to do.
Just wondering if i will get better result with gloss using a small foam roller or brush in terms of finish and time?
Advice appreciated

Thanx
Tony
 
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TonyV said:
Looking at redecorating whole of flat.
Have 7 flat faced fire doors to do.
Just wondering if i will get better result with gloss using a small foam roller or brush in terms of finish and time?
Advice appreciated

Thanx
Tony

Hope you don't mind me adding to the question, butI've just had some new panneled interior doors installed. Guy who did it reckons we should use Satin Wood paint (as this will show up the grain) and use a painbrush for the detail, and a roller for the flat pannels/side strips.

I thought it would be best to use a paintbrush, what do you guys think?
 
Any doors I've ever painted I did with a roller, best results always.
(But buy quality rollers and piant, you get what you pay for :D )
 
Tony...id go for a foam roller as you have a lot of doors to paint...but not the 4 inch rad roller types..a seven inch hard sleeve with foam layer.

Take the handles off first to save messing around....roll haf the door then lay off with a three inch brush......the the other half.

Wedge...I always use a rad roller on the type of door your talking about....its far quicker and leaves a nice finish.....these doors are factory primed and there is a 'orange peel' effect to them....if you brush them then you'l have orange peel and brush marks, which really looks unsightly

Ad satinwood IMO is the best finish.....gloss make them look cheap and made out of UPVC
 
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Thanx for advice - will use roller - let you know how i get on - probably in around a weeks time
 
Thanks from me too.

Am I right in thinking that the only extra bit of work I need to do is to prime the side and top edges of the doors before I paint them? They appear to be just bare wood, rather than the off-white colour of the faces of the door.
 
Knot and prime them yes...I wouldnt bother with the top..you cant see it.
 
Which type of satinwood would you say is best/easiest to use for a DIYer? I have 10 internal panelled doors and frames to paint and started with Dulux quick dry satinwood which is water based. It's a pain to use because it dries too quickly and forms a skin. I don't want to use it anymore because of this reason. Dulux don't seem to do a normal satinwood (ie, non quick drying) that is water based (I didn't find one in q&b). Is it ok to use a water based 'one-coat' satinwood (I think crown do one), or will I have a different set of problems if I use this?

cheers
sanjay [/quote]
 
I would go for the oil based satinwood...your right about the wate based stuff...it does go off quick and doesnt give the average DIY er much time.

Did you end up with ridges of paint around the panels after you cut them in?

There isnt a slow drying waterbased product on the market..it defeats the whole point of water based paint.

You could however add some polyvine acrylic scumble glaze to it...it will give you a longer working time...but will affect the covering power.

The 'one coat' type paints are ok...but they tend to leave a surface to them because they are soooooo thick....and you may still have the same drying problems.

On pre finished panel doors I used oil based...normally three coats, although you may get away with one ordinary undercoat and one top coat of satinwood.....put it on with a used radiator roller, cut in the panels first though.
 
thanks for the advice Zampa.

I started painting the architraves and door linings first and always seem to get a bit of paint collecting (as drips) at the edges (the edge of door stops for example) when painting the next section. If I try and paint over the drips it creates a mess. I guess the only solution is to let it dry and sand it down before applying the next coat when using the water based stuff.

I only tend to paint a little bit at a time (for example, an hour during lunch time since I work from home) which is why I went for the water based stuff as it only takes a few minutes to clean up (wash the brushes etc.). I didn't want to be spend 40 mins painting followed by 20 mins cleaning the brushes which might be the case with the oil based stuff (and the wife wouldn't be too happy if the house smell of turps all the time).

sanjay
 
You dont need to wash the brushes every time...leave em in water, then just flick it off when your ready to start painting again.

I know what you mean about the build up on the edges...you should be able to get around this by making sure your last stroke is an upright one.
 
I am finally ready to start painting my 10 panel doors!

Can someone (Zampa?) explain to me what "cut in the panels first though" means exactly. Does it mean to paint the edges (ie, non flat bits) of the panels (with a brush) first and then use the foam radiator roller to meet the line of paint, or does it mean something different?

If I apply more than a single coat of oil based satinwood, should I sand between each coat or is it unecessary?

Also, what do the professionals do to protect hinges when painting doors that are already hung. I just used Duck tape to cover them up (I have brass hinges). Is there a better solution?

thanks
sanjay
 
To get the smoothest coat of paint you can get with any paint, thin it. If you're using a water based paint, thin it a bit with water. Oil based paints are thinned with white spirits (paint thinner or mineral spirits).

Thinning increases the drying time, thereby allowing the paint more time to self level. The reason why brush strokes are the curse of DIY'ers is that DIY'ers don't seem to realize that solvents are evaporating from the paint in the can all the time the can is open, and they'll use the same can of varnish (or whatever) for small projects for years on end. Before long, they end up with a product that's too thick to self level by itself, and by that time they've forgotten how thin and easy to spread smooth it was when they bought the can.

For best results, take the door of it's hinges and paint each top horizontal surface one at a time with a small roller. This will allow you to thin your paint (for a streak free finish) without concern that the paint will sag as it's drying (which is what happens if you thin too much and then paint a vertical surface).

Also, in my view, it's best to take the hardware off the door and reinstall it after the paint is dry.

If you want to paint a vertical surface, then buy a paint conditioner like Floetrol for latex paints and Penetrol for oil based paints, both made by the Flood Company here in North America. No doubt the UK has an equivalent product sold under a different name. Basically, these are low volatility high viscosity solvents that will slow the drying time of the paint without lowering the viscosity of the paint so that it won't sag as it dries on vertical surfaces.

Just remember that it's really the job of the paint to self level, not the job of the brush to put it on so smooth it doesn't need to. BUT(!!!), for a paint to self level well, it has to be thin enough so that it can flow easily for a long enough time so that brush strokes will flatten out by themselves, and that generally means thinning it.

Also, keep in mind that the more you thin a paint, the smaller the film thickness it will dry to, so compensate for thinning by applying an additional coat or two.

PS:
When you see the words "Do Not Thin" on a can of any paint or varnish, you need to understand exactly what those words mean. It means that the company making the product cannot meet the stringent government VOC requirements in it's products, and has resorted to the MOST EFFECTIVE WAY of reducing the amount of VOC's that evaporate from it's product as it dries... and that is by simply putting less VOC's in it at the factory. That is, they sell it thicker so that less solvent evaporates from it, and therefore meets the stringent government VOC requirements. So, "Do Not Thin" really means "Listen mate, we can't sell this stuff unless it meets government air pollution regulations, and the only way we can get it to do that is by putting less solvent than required into it when we're making it. That way, less solvent evaporates from it when you use it. Officially, we're telling you not to thin it, but what you do with it is entirely and completely up to you since you're not regulated by the same rules that we are. If you thin it, and it seems to work much better when thinned, then hey, more power to ya."

Certainly, all of you will realize that you have little to loose and much to gain by pouring off a small amount of the product with those words on the can into a smaller container, thinning that poured off amount, and seeing if it works better for you than the stuff that's in the can.
 
Can someone (Zampa?) explain to me what "cut in the panels first though" means exactly. Does it mean to paint the edges (ie, non flat bits) of the panels (with a brush) first and then use the foam radiator roller to meet the line of paint, or does it mean something different?

Yep...ont use a foam roller..it may not get into the nooks and crannies..use a ordinary radiator roller....make sure you wash it first and spin it out down a wall to get rid of the loose pile.

Rubbing down between each coat....only if the think the door needs it...shich it shouldnt unless you have had a few fibres coming from the roller...in that case use 100 grade aluminum oxide (the green stuff)

As Nester says...try and remove all the hardware on a door...although it may be difficult taking the hinges off as you will need somewhere to stack ten doors...the turn em over and do them again...great if you have the space.

I wouldnt use duck tape...the gum may damage the brass finish of the hinge masking tape should do fine..

Given the time it takes to mask hinges neatly most pros will just drop into a slower gear and carefully paint around them.
 
Been following this informative thread with interest, but am confused by the advice on rollers. Early in the thread Zampa seems to be saying use a foam roller, but not the 4 inch, ones, and later suggests a radiator roller and not foam. This sounds imporatnt. Can you clarify, Zampa?

I'm planning on oil Satinwood for my own doors. Would would your answer be the same for the water based products?

Thanks
 

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