Best tool for taking out this old ball valve?

[spader]

I am having another look into this old ball valve. The fittings and how it is installed into the water tank is not quite common or conventional.
Which tool would be best for releasing and taking it out? The nut outside of the tank which joins the T- connector in the pipe is very thin, and no wrenches I have can grab it, and apply force into it before slipping out.

The ball valve unit could be turned with a large monkey wrench or spanner, while grabbing the T-conntector? Or the nut? Which is better option here?

I am not also sure, if the T-piece outside of the tank is standard sized threading either. It is T connector, but the centre bit is not usual nut in the bolt. It doesn't move. Would new ball valve fit onto the T-connector?

Would it work if one wrench grabs the T-connector, and the other wrench turns the ball valve in the tank? Or the nut has to be turned first?

 

[Alec_t]

Water-pump pliers might do it?

 

[CountryFan]

1 or 2 spanners, undo the tee and either make new one to fit or change fittigs. Better yet, call a plumber?

 

[Lower]

I would disconnect what you call the t connector from the copper pipes and the unscrew that off the ball valve. Once that’s off you should be able to get a pipe wrench, adjustable spanner or something onto the nut on the end of the ball valve and then unscrew the ball valve out of the nut.

More to the point, why do you need to remove the ball valve? Is it leaking?

 

[steven lee]

Yes, two wrenches is the right idea. Hold the tee steady with one so you are not twisting the tank fitting, then work the valve body itself rather than forcing that thin nut on its own. If it still slips, take the tee off the copper pipes first like Lower suggested, then you should get a proper grip on the valve nut once it is clear.

 

[spader]

I would disconnect what you call the t connector from the copper pipes and the unscrew that off the ball valve. Once that’s off you should be able to get a pipe wrench, adjustable spanner or something onto the nut on the end of the ball valve and then unscrew the ball valve out of the nut.

More to the point, why do you need to remove the ball valve? Is it leaking?

Yes, the old ball valve leaks. Needs a new one. Thanks for the idea and advice.

 

[spader]

Yes, two wrenches is the right idea. Hold the tee steady with one so you are not twisting the tank fitting, then work the valve body itself rather than forcing that thin nut on its own. If it still slips, take the tee off the copper pipes first like Lower suggested, then you should get a proper grip on the valve nut once it is clear.

Great advice and info. Many thanks.

 

[Lower]

Yes, the old ball valve leaks. Needs a new one. Thanks for the idea and advice.

Why dont you just change the washer to stop the leak?

 

[spader]

Why dont you just change the washer to stop the leak?

I think I could give a go replacing the old ball valve. I ordered bigger pipe wrenches and plumber grabs. What I have had in the tools were too small for the job.

I may also need a new T-connector, as the old one might not be fitting with the new ball valve.

 

[gas112]

is that tee 22mm with a 3/4 centre if so most ball valves are 1/2

 

[spader]

is that tee 22mm with a 3/4 centre if so most ball valves are 1/2

So will definitely need a new 1/2 tee then. Thanks for that info. I was going to check it out.

 

[gas112]

toolstation do 3/4 ball cocks 15 quid
Plumbcentre also do them as most proper merchants do but if you just asked for a ball cock they would usually just give you the most popular 1/2 version

 

[spader]

toolstation do 3/4 ball cocks 15 quid
Plumbcentre also do them as most proper merchants do but if you just asked for a ball cock they would usually just give you the most popular 1/2 version

Just checked out the ball valve I have got from ScrewFix, and it is 15mm fitting.
So I need a Tee connector with 22mm top and bottom, and 15mm centre going to the ball valve.

Are the PTE tape and plumbing paste a MUST for this connections?

 

[fixitflav]

I am having another look into this old ball valve.

If it's just the washer, which it most likely is, you don't need to remove the valve. Withdraw the split-pin and remove the arm. Unscrew the end cap and remove the plunger. Depending on the type, you might need to unscrew the bit that holds the washer.

 

[denso13]

Just checked out the ball valve I have got from ScrewFix, and it is 15mm fitting.
So I need a Tee connector with 22mm top and bottom, and 15mm centre going to the ball valve.

Are the PTE tape and plumbing paste a MUST for this connections?

Is it just a stub of pipe on top of the tee, or does it feed something else?