Best way to cut section out of 40mm oak worktop?

[Cavester]

Hi,

I have a 40mm solid oak stave worktop that I want to cut a clean section out of in order to install hinges to create a hatch. See below, hinges are the red bits.

How can I best cut this to ensure the corners are neat?

I am thinking a router but not sure the best bit which would be thin enough to do this so as to not make the gap too large.

Suggestions appreciated...

Thanks in advance.

 

[Diver Fred]

Me - I'd use a tracksaw and have right angle corners.

 

[Cavester]

But with the circular blade of a track saw I wouldn't be able to get a straight vertical cut?

 

[opps]

I too would use a plunge track saw.

The blade on mine is 2.2mm thick (kerf).

I would then use a jigsaw to finish the corners

 

[opps]

But with the circular blade of a track saw I wouldn't be able to get a straight vertical cut?

Can you explain what you mean by that?

Edit- Ahhh... I suspect that you missed the bit about using a plunge saw. It allows you to start a cut where ever you want in the timber.

 

[foxhole]

But with the circular blade of a track saw I wouldn't be able to get a straight vertical cut?

Why.?
What are the dimension of each end , oak stave worktops are very weak when cut leaving narrow sections.

 

[Diver Fred]

Yes you will have to complete the ends of each cut with a hand saw and finish the cuts with a plane (or a router if you have a accessory that allows you to use the tracksaw track with the router).

 

[Cavester]

I meant at the corners, as the saw is circular and not vertical. But I guess I could do what you suggested and switch to a jigsaw with the same width blade to cut into the 90 degree corners which I didn't contemplate initially.

 

[opps]

I meant at the corners, as the saw is circular and not vertical. But I guess I could do what you suggested and switch to a jigsaw with the same width blade to cut into the 90 degree corners which I didn't contemplate initially.

Depending on the size of the saw blade, the cut at the top will corner to corner, on the underside, you will have up to 3". A decent jigsaw with a decent blade will pretty much follow the groove cut by the circular saw.

I am not aware of a router bit that will leave a 2.2mm channel in a 40mm worktop.

 

[Cavester]

Thanks. I'll take a look at blades to try and get a circular and jigsaw the same width and look to do that you suggest.

Agree on the router bit, hence why I asked the question.

 

[Tigercubrider]

You could slightly trim the piece cut out after the tracksaw cut?
A plane could widen the gap by very little. Even a belt sander (carefully used)
Then a trim router to finish the edges?
you might get away by missing out the “trimming” by going to the router after the cut?

I would get a thick ply off cut (B&Q) often have cheap bits next to their wood cutting saw.
then do a couple of trials to finesse the technique

you need to allow for the hinges, plus the end that mates with the existing worktop may need a rebate?
Never done one

 

[big-all]

you wont get a jigsaw blade the same 2.2 just follow the outer edge off the cut then you can sand the extra from the offcut far easier than the worktop that will now need good support when moving to avoid a break

also are you happy with the hinge knuckle above the surface as sinking it below the surface will stop it opening fully as the wood above the pivot point closes up on opening
you can off course make a "V" groove to stop it binding

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But with the circular blade of a track saw I wouldn't be able to get a straight vertical cut?

You finish the cuts with a fine pull cut saw, e.g. a Japanese saw. Any tidying up of edges is done with a sharp block plane and sharp chisels. Don't try using a jigsaw - unless you have a Mafell P1cc with the W1 blade the cut will be carp - jigsaws can't cut dense 40mm thick material plumb for toffee

A decent jigsaw with a decent blade will pretty much follow the groove cut by the circular saw.

Most people don't have a decent jigsaw - a sharp hand saw will cut better, a Hapanese saw bettercstill, but both will require some clean-up afterwards

I am not aware of a router bit that will leave a 2.2mm channel in a 40mm worktop.

There is no such beast. If there were it would probably break in the post, let alone if you tried cutting oak with it!

Even a belt sander (carefully used)
Then a trim router to finish the edges?
you might get away by missing out the “trimming” by going to the router after the cut?

A belt sander risks dubbing over the edges as well as taking too much material off

A laminate to trim the edge? It's 40mm thick oak that's a bit risky as you'd need to use a long, thin bit in a 1/4in collet. And why a router to trim the edges? A plunge saw with a 40 tooth blade would actually leave a relatively clean face on the oak which would only require light sanding with a sanding board to be good (basically a piece of 18mm plywood or MDF with some sandpaper glued to the face)

also are you happy with the hinge knuckle above the surface as sinking it below the surface will stop it opening fully as the wood above the pivot point closes up on opening
you can off course make a "V" groove to stop it binding

You are right about hinges, B-A. Strikes me that this requirement needs either bar flap hinges (done my fair share of those butterfly hinges - and the cut outs for the same) or something like Soss concealed hinges, or the circular versions of them (not sure what they are called - edit: "solid brass cylinder hinges") in which case accurate drilling to install them is essential

TBH this job doesn't need a lot of technology; it could be done with very simple tools by a - a cordless 165mm circular saw with a new 24 tooth blade (kerf c.1.5mm), a couple of straight plywood strips, some veneer pins to hold them in place, a Japanese ryoba saw, a sharp 38mm chisel, a sharp block plane and a home made sanding board...