best way to fix cladding

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I'm considering building a timber garage...will be built with a frame of 2x4 covered in 12-18mm ply covered in bitumen paper then clad in redwood loglap type cladding to battens...what's the best way to attach the outer layer of cladding I was considering investing in a nail gun to add to my arsenal of tools to save time and effort as iI have an old carpal tunnel issue with both wrists and using a hammer for prolonged periods is not good, but having done some research I'm totally confused with all the different types of guns the way they are powered and types of nail they use...can anyone recommend a good all round nail gun that will suit the cladding job and other odds n sods...building rabbit runs/chicken coups etc(we have a small holding)
I've also read about "secret nailing" techniques...what's that all about? I want a neat job but at the end of the day it's a garage.
Any help/advice much appreciated
 
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Secrete fixing is normally putting a nail in an angle at the tounge end of the board, if it isnt T&G you can't secrete fix as you need a face fixing near the bottom of the board.

Sometimes people use pin type fixings that are very small, its not really secret nailing though, for what you are doing it is probably more than fine, but for "proper" cladding it is not considered best practice to use these nails as they provide poor restraint against cupping.

Sorry, cant be to much help with the actual guns though.
 
Any nail gun will do the job regardles of how it is powered (gass or compresed air) provided you can get galvanised nailes for it.
They come in 2 types :
Finish nailer fires nailes at 90º to the work surface the nailes tend to be thiner 16 to 18 gage. as they are desined not to split the wood i have used this type to put on scertings and architave. Nailes come in strips and are of the "T" sort were the head of the nail is cut on both sides to form a small tee

Framing nailer fires nailes from about 45º 90º nailes are readaly avalible in ring shank and galvanised. The nailes are thicker and this type of nailer is not sutable for delicate work. Nailes are cut on one side the strips are aranged so that one nail head sits on top of the one below. I have used this nailer for roofing, fencing , cladding and stud walling.

Unforginatly there is not one nailer that will do both types of job that you discibe.you may be better of screwing the timber with a good quolity battery drill.
 
I'm considering building a timber garage...will be built with a frame of 2x4 covered in 12-18mm ply covered in bitumen paper then clad in redwood loglap type cladding to battens...what's the best way to attach the outer layer of cladding I was considering investing in a nail gun to add to my arsenal of tools to save time and effort as iI have an old carpal tunnel issue with both wrists and using a hammer for prolonged periods is not good, but having done some research I'm totally confused with all the different types of guns the way they are powered and types of nail they use...can anyone recommend a good all round nail gun that will suit the cladding job and other odds n sods...building rabbit runs/chicken coups etc(we have a small holding)
I've also read about "secret nailing" techniques...what's that all about? I want a neat job but at the end of the day it's a garage.
Any help/advice much appreciated
Using a drill or nail gun for hours can give you tennis elbow ;)
 
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If you want a tidy job:

If you're using redwood like Cedar, make sure you're using Stainless pins.

Also as mentioned purchase TnG cladding for hidden fixing on the tongue. The only way is patience or a very well calibrated nail gun with stainless fixings imho.
 

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