Best wood finish for bathroom counter

[Seb101]

Can someone recommend the best finish for a piece to walnut that is going to be used as a bathroom counter top. Ideally something that will both protect the wood but also avoid ring-marks/staining if wet objects or splashes get on the surface.

Thanks!

 

[foxhole]

Top oil, though whatever is used spills need to be removed promptly.

 

[Seb101]

Top oil, though whatever is used spills need to be removed promptly.

Thanks!

I was wondering if there are any modern clear polymer/plastic based finishes that will completely remove the problem of water marking?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Junckers Strong or Strong Premium water-based acrylic lacquer - minimum of 3 coats on top of the primer coat, denibbed with P320 or P400 between coats. Use a good quality dense foam mini roller to apply it but don't go mad with the pressure after the primer coat as it will show through as witness lines. Where you need to brush use a decent quality synthetic fibre brush. There are other brands, it's just that this one I'm familiar with

 

[Doggit]

I'd have gone with yacht varnish, and used 800 grade wet and dry to smooth between coats. Foam rollers are quick, but aren't great for a really smooth finishes, but make an intersting pattern on gloss doors. Sorry Job, I've never used a primer coat on acrylic laquer, so are you saying 4 coats in total, or is the primer coat something else.

 

[Seb101]

Junckers Strong or Strong Premium water-based acrylic lacquer - minimum of 3 coats on top of the primer coat, denibbed with P320 or P400 between coats. Use a good quality dense foam mini roller to apply it but don't go mad with the pressure after the primer coat as it will show through as witness lines. Where you need to brush use a decent quality synthetic fibre brush. There are other brands, it's just that this one I'm familiar with

Thanks. I am also interested in what you mean by a primer coat? Using the same product?

The Junckers stuff looks like a great product, just a shame the smallest size is 5L!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Thanks. I am also interested in what you mean by a primer coat? Using the same product?

Junckers do a primer for their acrylic top coatings, called Prelak, but TBH it isn't necessary because you can just use the Strong as a base coat. It will raise the grain and you'll end up sanding a good amount of it away, but it works the same

Foam rollers are quick, but aren't great for a really smooth finishes, but make an intersting pattern on gloss doors. Sorry Job, I've never used a primer coat on acrylic laquer, so are you saying 4 coats in total, or is the primer coat something else.

I wouldn't use foam rollers for a high gloss finish, but for eggshell or semi-matt providing you use a high density foam (not one of those soft ones) and a light touch the results are acceptable. For high gloss I'd resort to using a brush. It sort of depends on how well your finish flows out. Just to re-iterate I am talking about 4in and 6in foam mini-rollers - not the larger type which are fitted onto a handle with a cage.

I meant primer coat (a lot of which you'll end up sanding away) plus three top coats as a minimum.

 

[Seb101]

Junckers do a primer for their acrylic top coatings, called Prelak, but TBH it isn't necessary because you can just use the Strong as a base coat. It will raise the grain and you'll end up sanding a good amount of it away, but it works the same

So this is going to sound like a stupid question, but other than staining a front door once I haven't really worked with putting high quality finishes on wood! How do you know when you have sanded enough between coats? Are you just looking for smooth to the touch? Do you wipe down with water to remove dust?

Also, the piece of wood I am using has been reclaimed from an old side-board, I am needing to completely remove the old varnish finish first. My plan is to start on 50 grit to remove the finish, then work up to 120 grit with the power sander and then by hand up to 400. Is that the right approach? Any other tips?

 

[endecotp]

I haven't really worked with putting high quality finishes on wood!

Practice on something else first. Maybe an offcut, or the back.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

So this is going to sound like a stupid question, but other than staining a front door once I haven't really worked with putting high quality finishes on wood! How do you know when you have sanded enough between coats? Are you just looking for smooth to the touch? Do you wipe down with water to remove dust?

First sanding (bare wood) should be something like 120 or 150 grit depending on species. Get all the dust off but don't wet it with water as that raises the grain. Possible methods include compressed air, tack cloths, white (unbleached) lint-free cotton rag dampened with white spirits (this needs to be allowed to dry out completely before continuing) or vacuum cleaner. Apply the primer coat and leave to dry thoroughly. Sand again starting at something like 100 or 120 then work up through 150, 220/240, 320 wiping off between grits so that lower grits don't conyimanate and mark the finer ones which follow. You are not trying to get back to the wood - what you are trying to do is get a nice smooth surface with the minimum of sanding. Wipe off again, still no water, but it needs to be dust free. Apply first top coat. Allow to dry. Denib with something like P320 or P400 paper and a sanding block (never sand using just your fingers) - this is a very light sanding and is just to remove any minor imperfections - it is not a heavy sanding. Coat 2nd time. Denib. Coat third time.

Try this out on a piece of scrap smooth timber first, it may take you two or three stabs at it to get good, but most people can get the hang of it quite quickly

Also, the piece of wood I am using has been reclaimed from an old side-board, I am needing to completely remove the old varnish finish first. My plan is to start on 50 grit to remove the finish, then work up to 120 grit with the power sander and then by hand up to 400. Is that the right approach? Any other tips?

Consider getting a couple of steel cabinet scrapers and learning how to sharpen and burr them. They'll do a better job than sand paper most of the time, but they won't always get into awkward corners

 

[endecotp]

Sand along the grain. Use a sanding block. Use a bright work light and a magnifier so that you can actually see what's going on at the "micro" level, rather than just seeing the end result from a distance.