betacom glow worm 30c condensate trap

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26 Oct 2014
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hey guys

Looking for a bit of advise concerning my boiler. I moved into my house in February of this year. Since then I've had problems with my condensate trap, its been changed around 4 times up to now. Whats causing this to keep going? i work away a lot this time of year and leave the misses and kids for a week at a time which with the winter months coming they'll be needing more hot water and heating. Its stressing me out so much I'm half thinking of getting a new boiler which i really don't want to do.

Any suggestions welcome. Ive just put a hose pipe down the condensate pipe which goes into the waste and its running perfectly fine
 
Do you mean why has the trap been changed? It kept flashing 90 on the front panel and cutting the boiler out. I know this is a common fault but surely this can't be right, I only changed it last week and it's happening again. I thought that was the problem but it seems there's more to it
 
I would say you need a gas safe engineer, flashing 90 means lack of flame, which being gas you are very unlikely to get help here. And its extremely doubtful youd have 4 faulty traps! I dont remember ever changing a trap on a betacom or any similar type of boiler!
 
When I unplug the sensor on the trap it works fine. Check the blue cap and the pins are a little moist ( cuts the boiler out) I did have a search on this forum and it seems some one posted the exact problem a couple of years back. There was a couple of solutions has any one ever tried it and had success?

Edit: sorry it was only last week it was posted lol. Here's what was said

There are 2 ways to 'fix' this problem - both depend on good drainage for the condense trap. This means no induced siphoning of the waste, ie gurgling.

The 1st easy way is to get a new cap and replace the one without pins with it. The wires are the separated to one on each plug. It is VITAL that the boiler is switched off at the fused spur or unplugged when doing this; as another trick this gem of a boiler can do is make the White wire 240v if just switched off on the front panel.

The other will need a good gasman to remove the siphon and dismantle it. He then needs to cut about 10 mm off of the inner dip tube.

Neither are 100% cures but have been known to cure a lot of these lame shiny maggots

I take it by siphon he means the black pipe which goes into the combustion chamber? I'm also a little confused about the replace the new cap and having the wires on to separated caps how will that stop it going faulty?
 

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