Beyond repair.

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Attached a couple of photos showing an opening light that has seen better days. The frame and the non opening light are fine. For some reason this one light has suffered badly. There being no drip head does not help.
I was hoping before removing the light that a bit of wood filler would work, how wrong I was. I do not really want to go to the effort, and expense of changing out the whole thing, as for one thing there is another matching window near it
and would look silly with two different windows, basing that on the assumption I cannot get an exact replacement. Would you suggest it is worth trying to repair or not? I am thinking of cutting out the rotten wood and slicing in replacement pieces.
Oh and by the way the property is listed.
Thanks
 

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Dry flex resin and some wood you could fix that.
Limit the amount of resin though as it's not cheap. There are other resin brands you can used but using as much wood as possible is the trick
 
Strictly by removing the sash, you should need LBC, and you definitely will if you replace it whole. And you will need to match it, not just fit any old replacement.

The bottom rail can be replaced and the stile and muntin spliced.

I doubt resin would be possible to that extent, and in any case, filler should be kept to a minimum for listed building repairs. You are obligated to use traditional methods when formal consent is not required, and get consent if that's not possible.
 
Dry flex resin and some wood you could fix that.
Limit the amount of resin though as it's not cheap. There are other resin brands you can used but using as much wood as possible is the trick
Tell me. I use the Ronseal woodfiller, always found good but as you sa the price has rocketed.
 
Strictly by removing the sash, you should need LBC, and you definitely will if you replace it whole. And you will need to match it, not just fit any old replacement.

The bottom rail can be replaced and the stile and muntin spliced.

I doubt resin would be possible to that extent, and in any case, filler should be kept to a minimum for listed building repairs. You are obligated to use traditional methods when formal consent is not required, and get consent if that's not possible.
You sound like my conservation officer ;) It is not a sash window what you see is the opening light from a stormproof casement window.
 
Ronseal wood filler is not the same as dryflex resin
 
Not sure how you figure that out?
A window has a frame, and the sections that fit into the frame and are either fixed or movable and hold the glazing are sashes.

Many people think that sashes are only the sliding things in "sash windows".
 
It is repairable but the cost of materials and labour/tools might make a bespoke replacement a better option.

You will need to cut/plane the timber to size. Then you will need to find suitable router cutters. The rebate for the glass will be trivial as will be the drip channel on the underside- the cutter for the internal moldings might be more difficult to find but @GhostIntMachine will be able to talk you through a process to replicate it.

When splicing timber I use Rebuild Resin OneHour - it is £30 for the tube (inc VAT and delivery) but you will need the application gun £30.

A joiner/timber yard will be able to make a whole replacement or they might be able to pre-machine the timber for you to self repair. If they do not have the cutter for the interior molding they will need to have one custom made- they cost about £300 though (or at least they did when I need them to machine missing architraves in 2020).
 
A window has a frame, and the sections that fit into the frame and are either fixed or movable and hold the glazing are sashes.

Many people think that sashes are only the sliding things in "sash windows".

Do sash windows have a hinge?
 
A window has a frame, and the sections that fit into the frame and are either fixed or movable and hold the glazing are sashes.

Many people think that sashes are only the sliding things in "sash windows".
Me thinks you are being rather pedantic.
 
It is repairable but the cost of materials and labour/tools might make a bespoke replacement a better option.

You will need to cut/plane the timber to size. Then you will need to find suitable router cutters. The rebate for the glass will be trivial as will be the drip channel on the underside- the cutter for the internal moldings might be more difficult to find but @GhostIntMachine will be able to talk you through a process to replicate it.

When splicing timber I use Rebuild Resin OneHour - it is £30 for the tube (inc VAT and delivery) but you will need the application gun £30.

A joiner/timber yard will be able to make a whole replacement or they might be able to pre-machine the timber for you to self repair. If they do not have the cutter for the interior molding they will need to have one custom made- they cost about £300 though (or at least they did when I need them to machine missing architraves in 2020).
What did cross my mind is to do away with the 6 separate panes, and hence the central glazing bars. Instead install one full size pane and attach
fake glazing bars using white glazing tape.
 
Do sash windows have a hinge?

Some do. The word “sash” simply means the moving panel that holds the glass. Most people probably think of a sliding sash window when they hear the term sash. For that reason many manufacturers call the hinged variant "casement" windows.

The following explains the difference/sameness

 

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