Blanchard's knotting & Farrow & Ball's exterior prod

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Over the last 20 years we've had several attempts at a lasting paint job on an ex-shopfront and door. We've got a mixture of hard and softwood, and have replaced some horizontal sills over the years with new wood. It is south-facing and receives full doses of rain and sun (except the door which is under cover).

Earlier this summer we used Farrow and Ball oil-based exterior gloss (special mix, National Trust colour), their undercoat and their aluminium primer. We received frequent advice from their technical dept. to get the products and procedure correct. Results are basically an expensive disaster.

First problem (6 weeks ago) was the final coat wrinkling in several patches, mainly on the sills. F & B's opinion was the paint had been applied too generously - unlikely, but possible.

Current problem, 6 weeks on, is that primer/undercoat/top coat have all lifted off the knotting (Blanchard's), all three coats have cracked badly at the join of horizontal and vertical parts of the sills and window uprights and also on the horizontal sections of the sills.

I am finding my original customer advice guy at F & B slightly elusive, though summer hols. may be a perfectly understandable factor at their end.

No problems with Dulux or Albany over Blanchard's in the past.

Would anyone have any comments or advice?

Many thanks.
 
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Boswell said:
First problem (6 weeks ago) was the final coat wrinkling in several patches, mainly on the sills. F & B's opinion was the paint had been applied too generously - unlikely, but possible.

I am finding my original customer advice guy at F & B slightly elusive,
No problems with Dulux or Albany over Blanchard's in the past.

Would anyone have any comments or advice?

Many thanks.
Wrinkling.....If you must use old fashioned (lead based?) paint ....then you need to use it like an old decorator ;) I remember my Grandfather saying you needed to virtually wipe the old paints back off a surface....he started an apprenticeship in 1919........Why use ali primer unless the wood`s knotty +bleeding or resinous :confused: if it gets the sun then the ali primer`ll get hot under the other coats ........I`ll bet it was Expensive :eek: I know what I think of these olde worlde friends of the earth paints , but I`m keeping stum ;)
 
Thanks, Nige F

Come to think of it, the problem with lifting has only been on the new wood. The new sill was knotty, and that's where the main problem is.

That's interesting about the ali primer being a problem when hot - earlier this week I couldn't lay my palm on the paintwork which had been in the sun - it was very hot. I would have thought that the ali coat would have reflected the heat, though.

And it was expensive......
 
Think the main problem is the topcoat (I presume ) is a Deep, dark colour? Dark colours are not recommended for south facing elevations (posh word lol). If you finish with white or, a more neutral colour the aluminium primer wont get (so) hot, nor the wood. Though this doesn't help when you got to have a deep colour, which means more maintenace ;)

Did you make sure you wiped over any knotty area's with meth's before knotting?
well thats my 2pence.. good luck.
 
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New wood :idea: still loosing it`s moisture content....then trapped under the ali/oil paint .....can`t beat modern microporous paint ;)
 

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