Blocking Off Door Question

[BathDIY]

We want to block off an internal doorway in our house. The doorway seems to have been added after the building was built.

Have purchased aerated blocks and have read up on the method, but am unsure on 1 point.

I was assuming that I should remove the floorboard used to patch the suspended floor between the doorframe and build on the blocks below. Then I read a passage in a DIY book that referred to building on a sill.

Can I simply build on top of the wood used to make good the suspended floor in the doorway?

I have attached a pic.

 

[Bonni]

I would remove the wood and build from below and insert a DPC where necessary. Make sure you use something like Bluebird Brick Ties as you build up.

Wood shrinks so it's not an ideal surface to build off.

http://www.bluebird-fixings.ltd.uk/

 

[BathDIY]

I would remove the wood and build from below and insert a DPC where necessary. Make sure you use something like Bluebird Brick Ties as you build up.

Wood shrinks so it's not an ideal surface to build off.

http://www.bluebird-fixings.ltd.uk/

Thanks, then that is what I will do

 

[^woody^]

If the board is solid and supported leave the board in, fix a 4x2 across, then build off that.

I'd you take the board up you'll end up messing about with DPC, and noggins - and that's if there is something to build off in the first place.

 

[BathDIY]

If the board is solid and supported leave the board in, fix a 4x2 across, then build off that.

Hi Woody thanks for your comment.

The board seems solid, what's the need for the additional 4x2, is it just to provide additional structure and should it be fit tight in to both sides of the wall?

 

[^woody^]

The timber spreads to load to the floor and prevents any movement from the floor affecting the blockwork.

 

[BathDIY]

@^woody^ thanks again for your help.

Just checking something, would I be OK to use grab adhesive rather than nails to fix the 4" 2" I have checked with a trowel and there are pipes under the area.

Also have some 3" 2" in my garage am assuming the weight of the blocks will prevent warping so am OK to cut and use straight away? Or should I bring inside for a while first to prevent warping?

 

[Diver Fred]

Why don't you use a wooden frame and plasterboard over in the doorway? Cleaner to install and quicker to boot.

 

[BathDIY]

I have the blocks brought already, so am committed.

The existing wall is blockwork. I did some research a while back which seemed to indicate that blocks would be better to avoid cracking of plaster down the road. I know some disagree.

 

[^woody^]

@^woody^ thanks again for your help.

Just checking something, would I be OK to use grab adhesive rather than nails to fix the 4" 2" I have checked with a trowel and there are pipes under the area.

Also have some 3" 2" in my garage am assuming the weight of the blocks will prevent warping so am OK to cut and use straight away? Or should I bring inside for a while first to prevent warping?

The sole plate really needs to be spiked into the floor to stop it sliding or bowing. If you can't fix right through, just use a screw that gets you half or three-quarters of the way in to the floorboard and that will do.

It should be no probelm using that timber straight from the garage.

 

[BathDIY]

Hmm, have encountered another potential issue, now with the lintel.

Have chipped back some of the plaster and can see the end of some metal which I assume is the lintel.

My understanding is that a lintel should bear 15cm onto brickwork. At present, it seems to bear only around 10cm onto brickwork (when accounting for the door frame approx. 3.5cm thick). Also, I can also see some cracking at the base of one side of the supporting wall, with cracking repair visible in the plaster at both sides, (see pic). When I put my hands under the frame I can feel lots of loose material up to babies fist-sized bits and quite a gap in this area. Here I can feel a solid brick surface 6-7cm back from the surface of the door frame.

There is evidence to suggest that the doorway was widened from single to double at some point (some signs of botch job as new piece of board just fitted using battons to the surrounding floorboards).

The frame itself doesn't seem to be holding the wall up as its ends don't bear down onto anything of significance. However, I wonder if the frame itself is giving the area support and removal could lead to problems.

Should I be OK to proceed as planned and simply (but carefully) cut out the door frame and build from 4" X 2" as suggested by @^woody^ ?

Or do I need to first act to prevent issues with the lintel?

 

[^woody^]

My understanding is that a lintel should bear 15cm onto brickwork

That's not the case, it can be 100mm or a bit less - it all depends. You can remove the frame.

 

[BathDIY]

Thanks so much, @^woody^

I probably worry way too much, but better to be that way than the other I guess

 

[BathDIY]

@^woody^ I was wrong! I have removed the frame the lintel seems to be made of wood the metal insert just added under the wood.

Given am filing in am assuming am OK to proceed, still building off the 4" X 2"?

Also, they have used plasterboard to cover the wood, what's the best way to transition from plaster to plasterboard?

 

[Leofric]

You aren't blocking off a means of escape in case of fire presumably, just saying.