Boarding a steel - knocking in wedges?

[phatboy]

Hi all,

I have a steel through to an extension and fitting timber to secure the plasterboard boxing around it will bring it oversize.

I have been suggested to wedge blocks of timber into the steel between the top and bottom plates. Is it as simple as cutting slightly too long 75x 50mm timber blocks, hammering them in like hell and securing the plasterboard to them? I am just a bit concerned about relying completely on friction to keep it all in place.

Thanks!

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Ideally you would avoid using any timber in steel encasement, using lightweight metal angles (Gypframe FEA1 Steel Angle) fixed to the beam into which you screw the boards.

 

[23vc]

Cut them at a bit of an angle to encourage them to wedge in, and I’d normally use thinner than 50mm. And yes need a couple of decent whacks

FMT, is timber noggins a no no nowadays then? Wasn’t aware of that.

 

[securespark]

FMT, is timber noggins a no no nowadays then? Wasn’t aware of that.

Nor me, but then my lads call me an old fart, so I must be out of date...

 

[foxhole]

I cut correct size and screwed and glued to steel .The screwed and glued plasterboard .

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

In the event of a fire when a beam is protected by board on timber battens, the timber battens will expand and twist/deform at different rates to the steel beam as the whole thing heats up, potentially causing the boards to be forced off, the threads on the fixing screws holding the boards on can char the timber and loosen and pop out too, realistically it's not quite so important on a dwelling where the loads/risks are lower but these days post Grenfell everything ought to be done by the book. Commerciallly they've come down on this in a big way since. Only tested methods are acceptable.

Alternatively use Glasroc F boards of the appropriate thickness that needs no framing and the boards can be fixed into each other.

 

[phatboy]

In the event of a fire when a beam is protected by board on timber battens, the timber battens will expand and twist/deform at different rates to the steel beam as the whole thing heats up, potentially causing the boards to be forced off, the threads on the fixing screws holding the boards on can char the timber and loosen and pop out too, realistically it's not quite so important on a dwelling where the loads/risks are lower but these days post Grenfell everything ought to be done by the book. Commerciallly they've come down on this in a big way since. Only tested methods are acceptable.

Alternatively use Glasroc F boards of the appropriate thickness that needs no framing and the boards can be fixed into each other.

Thanks for the detail. We are in a bungalow, and if a fire was that intense I'd assume the house was done for anyway!

Glasroc looks good, but bl00dy hell expensive!

How would the Gypframe FEA1 Steel Angle work? It looks to have folds on the corners that would prevent mounting board to it for the edges at the bottom of the steel?

 

[phatboy]

I cut correct size and screwed and glued to steel .The screwed and glued plasterboard .

So did you have to drill a number of holes into the steel (It's fairly thick as a 203x203 46) and use self tappers/drillers to fix the board?

 

[foxhole]

So did you have to drill a number of holes into the steel (It's fairly thick as a 203x203 46) and use self tappers/drillers to fix the board?

Used these , no drilling required .

Easydrive Phillips Double-Countersunk Self-Drilling Wing Screws 5.5mm x 40mm 100 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. For fixing chipboard to steel. Self-drilling point. Wings cut clearance hole in wood then snap off when they reach steel, preventing wood from 'jacking-up'. Under-head ribs for self-countersinking. Zinc-plated. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1...

www.screwfix.com

 

[noseall]

Hi all,

I have a steel through to an extension and fitting timber to secure the plasterboard boxing around it will bring it oversize.

I have been suggested to wedge blocks of timber into the steel between the top and bottom plates. Is it as simple as cutting slightly too long 75x 50mm timber blocks, hammering them in like hell and securing the plasterboard to them? I am just a bit concerned about relying completely on friction to keep it all in place.

Thanks!

We always have holes drilled in the web centre then fix a (solid) timber sandwich each side.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Glasroc F Firecase boards are also fine for this method. I daresay people will carry on using timber because they're misinformed/uneducated.