Boiler installation problems

Joined
26 Aug 2008
Messages
162
Reaction score
2
Location
Essex
Country
United Kingdom
Is any body about to help with a query over the wiring of this.

Boiler doesn't run and instead blows fuses.

Terminal in boiler marked 'R' has been connected to permanent earth by the installer, is this right, the gloworm download describes it as going via 'system controls' i.e programmer and thermostat etc???

Am I right in thinking its wrong, or not??

House is cold and no hot water, two young children and short patience, any clue??
 
Sponsored Links
R is usually switch live.

Terminal marked earth is earth :rolleyes:
 
As I thought but just confused. Boiler has only been moved 6' feet and 2 pipes and 2 3-cores wires extended, all other wiring and plumbing is as was which was all working fine. I have removed the wire going to 'R' from the earth block and when this wire is temporarily connected to a permanent live the boiler powers up as does the pump but does not fire up. This may have something to do with the faceplate not pushed onto the wired backplate of the controller, problem is that when this is connected, pin 8 and 6 arc and blow fuse.

What could he have got so wrong???

Any Thoughts??

I will reward the help by posting some images of what he felt an acceptable finish to the job was, truly, truly shocking!!!
 
your plumber has severly messed up here, as a temporary fix i would suggest this.

switch of your plumbers electrics
remove the power plug and fit a live nuetral and earth to this via a flying lead (plug fused at 3amp) and either link out the 24v control point's (sometimes marked as bus)or bridge a wire from live to R.

do not attempt to use the system timer untill checked by and electrician, and for sure have your boiler rechecked from another gas engineer, a plumber has to be registered to carry out this work and therefor you could be left in a dangerous situation.
 
Sponsored Links
now get those pics on so i can have a laugh at what you spent your hard earned cash on ;)
 
No money passed hands yet i'm glad to say!!

Are you saying that the boiler should fire up when connected via a 3-pin plug temp. fix and that the stats, controllers etc will simply prevent it from doing so as required??
 
no isolate the existing wiring at the spur/plug so it is dead remove it from the installers cartridge, and wire in a three pin plug with a link from l to r to give you temp heat and water untill this has been checked!!!

going by the explanation you have given i guess it is the flexicom boiler??
 
Thanks very much for your help.

I have now solved it, it was the fault of the wiring that he had done. The switched live coming from the live is in fact connected to a yellow/green wire in a 3-core coming from the loft from the cylinder stat. However in his wisdom he has atempted to tidy things up by putting all the the remaining yellow and green wires in this same junction block. These were unfortunately the various earths from the wiring system.

I am now understandably concerned by the work and I have the following questions.

1] As he has changed the gas pipe configuration what checks can I ask him if he has done and should I get a certificate for it?

2] He has the gas safe logo on his card, can I ask for any further proof?

3] Is he able to legally complete the wiring associated with the boilers that he may fit or would he need further qualifications. The reason I ask is that it looks severly substandard to me?

4] I am currently fuming at him and mostly myself for hiring him but what recourse do I have with regard to payment. I have paid nothing yet and whilst my irrational side says let him take me to court for it, I am inclined to think that may be he took the job on and found himself out of his depth and is at least due the majority of his money?

What do you think?

I am having to keep the photo's to myself at the mo until he returns tomorrow, but will post as soon as possible, I think it will make a proessional truly embarassed.

Cheers for reading all of this waffle
 
It gets worse!!

white pipe going outside to the drain from the boiler has leaked water down the wall on the inside to the decorative cladding below and warped it. Took the pipe apart and instead of using 21.5 overflow pipe, instead I find 20mm white plastic electrical conduit in 21.5 fittings with loads of cement to try and seal. This obviously didn't work and I now have to get this re-done. Why did he do this???

Unbelievable, maybe the professionals amongst you can tell me, is there a worldwide shortage of 21.5mm pipe to need the use of 20mm conduit, cement and a whole lot of luck??
 
Was it solvent cement ? Or just rgular cement?
No excuse for it really, i know that some 21.5 doesnt match up with others and the pipe and fittings don't interchange but for all it cost's there is no excuse for this.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top