boiler isolation valves

[hayesey]

I suspect I already know the answer to this but just wanted to check before I spend money I don't need to

I will be replacing the diverter valve in my Ravenheat 820/20 (yes I've read threads on how hard it is but I'm going for it anyway). Obviously I need to drain the water from both CH and DHW systems. Is there a way of me not having to touch the isolator valves? As I believe these are prone to leaking if messed with.

Can I not turn the cold water off at the mains, drain the DHW circuit from taps and the boiler drain plug and drain the central heating system without closing off the isolator valves?

Obviously, I'm trying to avoid having to buy new isolator valves in the event that one springs a leak if moved.

I know I'll need to put inhibitor into the CH again but I'd be happier doing this anyway as I have no idea if there is any currently in there!

cheers,
Paul.

 

[gasservice85]

yes drain system avoid touching iso valves at all costs

 

[hayesey]

good, that's what I wanted to hear

 

[Boilerman2]

If your boiler is located upstairs it will be higher than any of the radiators so no draining of the system will be required if it isn't you will need to drain don't forget to open up the bleed screws on the upper rads to allow air in to empty the rads - it will save you getting wet once you start work and as been said replace inhibitor when refilling..after you have made sure there are no leaks!

 

[Agile]

Little trick!

If you close all the rad valves then all you need to drain is the water in the pipework. Because most of the water is in the rads if its already inhibited you dont need to add any more inhibitor.

You only need to drain to just below the height of the boiler.

I call that a knuckle scraping task. I allow 1.25 hours and expect that it may well take much longer.

I did once speak to an Irish engineer who used to work for Ravens and could change them in 45 minutes. ( Usually ! )

Tony

 

[bengasman]

As every Ravenheat I have ever seen was clearly installed by a cowboy, I'd say the chances are pretty slim that the system was flushed properly and inhibitor added afterward in your case.

 

[expertgasman]

er....

10) Posts covering DIY gas work are not allowed. You can read more here:
Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/rules.php#ixzz1Tg1dtcTW[/i]

 

[petit_pablo]

er....

10) Posts covering DIY gas work are not allowed. You can read more here:
Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/rules.php#ixzz1Tg1dtcTW[/i][/QUOTE]

Who's doing gas work?

 

[hayesey]

thanks for the tips people.

The boiler is indeed higher up than the rads but I'm going to drain it anyway so I can make sure there is inhibitor in there.

Not really bothered if it takes all day for me to do it as I wont be sending myself an invoice

Not touching anything gas related!