Boiler lose pressure over few weeks, water coming out

S

snadge

we have noticed since moving into this house 6 months ago that the boiler pressure slowly drops, after a few weeks its will be ZERO - we couldnt find any leaks and i just assumed that it would be under the living room floor (radiators) and I would find it when we come to do that room... anyway Ive just changed all the plumbing in kitchen and the boiler has an outlet to the waste, ive noticed that when the central heating is on the boiler emits water by this pipe but just a small amount...such an amount that it could equate to the pressure loss over a few weeks

is this normal to emit water while active? - when its off it stops...

if not, what could be causing this and does it require a call out? - what i can say is that the rads above it in bathroom/bedroom sometimes get air in, also the pipes in bedroom on other end of house make such a racket when heating up (thats probably unrelated but thought i would mention it too)

can anyone offer some help on this~?


thanks
 
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If you have a condensing combi then this is the condense pipe and it will be normal.

If you don't it is more than likely your prv leaking. You can sometimes stop them by turning off the boiler and lifting the valve lever to discharge it (sometimes **** can stop it from seating and creates a leak).

If this does not work you will need a new PRV. but without knowing more I can only assume.
 
S

snadge

If you have a condensing combi then this is the condense pipe and it will be normal.

If you don't it is more than likely your prv leaking. You can sometimes stop them by turning off the boiler and lifting the valve lever to discharge it (sometimes s**t can stop it from seating and creates a leak).

If this does not work you will need a new PRV. but without knowing more I can only assume.

I dont know if its a condensing boiler or not - its an IDEAL ISAR HE30 if thats any help.... i will go look at it now, see if i can see anything on the sticker about condensing - ive a feeling its not...
 
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S

snadge

so its normal then - well thats pleasing to know but then there is this loss of pressure over few weeks... i wonder if this is a leak i havent found yet?

what else could it be?


thanks
 
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a slow loss might not leave any moisture you will notice, first wipe your dry hand and fingers over and around every joint & radiator valve you can get access to, touch your lips and you will find any trace of moisture there is, that includes the 15mm copper tube sticking out of the wall behind the boiler (it's the vent pipe for the boilers over pressure relief valve, they can get a bit leaky).

also look at every inch of system for streaks, stains etc that might show where there is or has been a leak.

do these checks when the boiler is running as the pressure will be higher when the water is hot and pumping.

if it is a rad valve, either nip the nut up, or drain and remake the joint that is leaking with fresh jet blue/boss white and a new olive (copper for choice as it is softer than a brass olive and may seal better)

if you can find nothing, chuck a bottle of system leak sealer in - fernox do one.

system water and condense water are totally unrelated.
 
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a slow loss might not leave any moisture you will notice, first wipe your dry hand and fingers over and around every joint & radiator valve you can get access to, touch your lips and you will find any trace of moisture there is, that includes the 15mm copper tube sticking out of the wall behind the boiler (it's the vent pipe for the boilers over pressure relief valve, they can get a bit leaky).

also look at every inch of system for streaks, stains etc that might show where there is or has been a leak.

do these checks when the boiler is running as the pressure will be higher when the water is hot and pumping.

if it is a rad valve, either nip the nut up, or drain and remake the joint that is leaking with fresh jet blue/boss white and a new olive (copper for choice as it is softer than a brass olive and may seal better)

if you can find nothing, chuck a bottle of system leak sealer in - fernox do one.

system water and condense water are totally unrelated.
Hi Studips, Mind If I hijack info from OP.The sealer, The sealer comes in 2 sizes F4 express 265ml@£18 approxx,special applicator, direct injection.OR 500 ml@£14 approx.from bottle.big difference in price.As I need 2 @£18, because I have 13 rads, the 500ml is the better/cheaper option.BUT? how do you get it in direct from bottle to system, apart from draining a rad, and somehow pouring it in bleeder? What do you reccomend?PS ordinary combie system.
 
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hiya, if you have a towel rail, you can hopefully unscrew the top plug and pour straight into the rad (once you've released the pressure, then drained off a litre or two to allow for the chem to get in) reseal, fill up and start pumping
 
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hiya, if you have a towel rail, you can hopefully unscrew the top plug and pour straight into the rad (once you've released the pressure, then drained off a litre or two to allow for the chem to get in) reseal, fill up and start pumping
Hi, No towel rail, unfortunately.Whats the other end of rad like, plug? Is that washer sealed, or is that likely to leak after?The dear one is for loop, ideal but costly.Any other way?Is all in one go ok, or bit @ a time which means seal/unseal etc. cheers
 
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newer rads seal on an o ring, older rads you can use ptfe and a sealant (if your just doing odd bits then fernox lsx is worth getting), when you drain, open the bleed valve on the rad you want to drain down (once the system pressure is down a bit). chuck the lot in all in one go is favourite
 
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newer rads seal on an o ring, older rads you can use ptfe and a sealant (if your just doing odd bits then fernox lsx is worth getting), when you drain, open the bleed valve on the rad you want to drain down (once the system pressure is down a bit). chuck the lot in all in one go is favourite
Hi, Thanks, got new and old rads. so probably try new one first,Have you used it? and does it do what it says on the tin?The info says it's better in warm system, so, to ensureit has thouroughly mixed and circulated whole system, how ling should ch be running , 24 hours non stop, or different.info on website is too vague,CheersPS I have posted it separate just in case someone knows of a tip. Hope you don't mind.
 
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luckily, ive just installed a towel rail in kitchen so i will follow your guide later,

but, got a new problem with boiler now...

here -> http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1826990[/QUOTE]Hi, Homebase have injector express type on offer @ £15.95, so opted for that.Easier to put straight in loop, and just £2 dearer than 500ml bottle, which I didn't know does only the same size system as 290ml from homebase.Not worth draining rad etc.
 

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