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Boiler not switching on, pump not running, no hot water - please help?

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by HazelFlorist, 8 Aug 2019.

  1. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    Thanks once agaon - this is hugely helpful.

    I removed the timer and jumped the wires between L, 3 and 4 as indicated and hey presto, everything works. If I up the room stat, the 3 port valve works and the rads warm up. If I up the cyl stat, the boiler also fires and heats the water in the tank.

    I.e the stats work, the boiler works, the 3 port valve works - everything works as indicated it should (obviously we can't test the CH only function in the above hard wired condition).

    So, as I understand it - my timer is knackered (knowing the contacts are solid and surgically cleaned and prepped).

    I'll order a new timer tonight - any other suggestions other than that Draytom LP522?

    This then leaves me with the issue of no connection to terminal 1 and the likely(?) cause of the no CH only functionality?

    I do have a multi-meter, but can't think past having 60 foot long leads with one in the kitchen cupboard and the other upstairs in the airing cupboard trying to find a continuity beep to establish which end is which so I know what can and can't be connected to T1. Or is there an easier way to do this?
     
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  2. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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  3. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    you are making this over complicated, its simple, the grey wire from the mid position valve and the wire that is connected to terminal 2 on your cylinder stat connect to terminal 1 at the timer, they are usually connected in your wiring centre
     
  4. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    Please forgive me but could you help me achieve this status, as currently the airing cupboard end and wiring centre are less of a challenge to decipher than the back plate status.

    Currently at my back plate, there are no wires going to terminals 1 or 2.

    I do however have at the back plate (in addition to mains power) two multi-core cables, of which the red and black wires of each are joined together - red to red, black to black. I understand that I need to attach one of them to terminal 1 at the timer. My question is which one, as if I separate them both, I'll have two red wires and two black wires at the back plate and if I understand your suggestion correctly, one of them needs to connect to T1.

    My question is how do I establish which one, and then what do I do with the other 3 bare ends?
     
  5. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    what is the grey wire from your Motorised valve connected to ?
     
  6. stem

    stem

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    The wire highlighted in the diagram below, that links the motorised valves grey wire, (and the cylinder stat satisfied terminal) to the programmer HW OFF terminal 1, is what you are missing.

    Y-Plan-Wiring.gif
     
  7. dilalio

    dilalio

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  8. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    Grey wire from 3 port goes to blue wire from cyl stat - no other wires exit from this part of the connector block, so the mysterious wire that 'should' go the terminal 1 isn't there.
     
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  10. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    Someone has suggested I have a hot water priority system???

    Not sure what this means, or if it is true, or what I do about it to get a CH only channel to work?
     
  11. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    No you do not have a priority HW system, you have a system that is wired wrong
    AGAIN wire colours mean diddly squat, is the blue wire connected to terminal 2 on the Cyl stat ?
     
  12. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    Hot water priority simply means that if a call is received to provide both CH and HW, then the HW will be prioritised. Once that demand has been satisfied, it will then try to satisfy the demand for CH. It doesn't mean that to have CH you must have the HW too and it is not what you have.
     
  13. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    Here is a picture of the inside of the cyl stat - the blue wire on the right attached to number 3 joins up to the grey wire on the 3 port valve with no other connections going anywhere from this particular junction on the connector block.

    [​IMG]

    Does this help?
     
  14. Harry Bloomfield

    Harry Bloomfield

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    It is not clear to me which terminal is which on the stat, but assuming it is correct - You are still short of one wire linking terminal 7 in the joint box, to your timer's HW Off terminal.

    It is very unusual to grey 3c and earth for wiring that up, more usual would be to use flexible cable, because it is not fixed wiring. That suggests it has been installed by an amateur.

    I'm inclined to suggest you check all of the wiring out against the circuit diagrams you have been already provided with several times, or get someone in who can!
     
  15. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    It is a modern(ish) house built in 1989, so I can absolutely confirm that every single aspect of it was built by amateurs. Wiring, plumbing, joinery, plastering - all of it is borderline hopeless. The wiring is original, we've lived here almost from new and the original timer I replaced in 2003/4 with the now failing Tempus Six was not two channel.

    How do I check what wires that disappear down the hole in the my airing cupboard floor are the ones that arrive at my timer mounting plate when they are in different parts of the house and are much the same, beyond my comedy suggestion of 60foot long multi meter cables on continuity beep?

    Surely I need to assess every part - the issue being that so much of the wiring is hidden. Back to my question - how do electricians identify which wire in the airing cupboard is the same wire that appears at the timer when there are several to choose from - it makes confirming wiring extremely difficult? Or is there an easy way I've not figured out?
     
  16. HazelFlorist

    HazelFlorist

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    This is my set up...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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