Boiler pressure loss

[Dan Robinson]

800,000 plus have been made and not a single heat exchanger failure.

Very popular in Holland where they were designed for the housing Association market. Which they take a hell of a lot more seriously than they do here.

 

[swidders]

800,000 plus have been made and not a single heat exchanger failure.

Very popular in Holland where they were designed for the housing Association market. Which they take a hell of a lot more seriously than they do here.

A good opening punch. What about the little counterjabs of any failing parts and ease of availability?

 

[Dan Robinson]

Parts available next day - not that there are many.

Fan
Gas Valve
Flow switch (simple paddle switch)
Spark electrode
Spark Generator on the gas valve
Two dry pocket thermosters in het exchanger
One NTC for hot water
PCB (SIT)
Pump (Wilo or Grundofs) - removeable and and asy to fit external one such as Alpha or other inteligent model)
Expansion vessel on a hinge at the front
PRV

Open Vented or Sealed system.


That's it

Oh, and Opentherm comaptiable.

Mains or low voltage switching.

Sludge proof.

And no gay plastic manual air vents on the top of the heat exchanger - what a sh1te idea that was...

And you don't need a special brush to clean the HE - just some Allen keys.

 

[swidders]

You're selling it to me nicely. Thanks for the effort and I will give it serious consideration. A post on this forum in about 4 weeks is forthcoming and we shall see what anyone else throws into the pot at that time.

Again, thanks

 

[ionlyask]

See link below to relevant legislation on gas safety.

Bear in mind also all work on the gas side was carried out by a registered Corgi engineer.

However much you might want it to be otherwise nothing in the regulations requires you to be registered with CORGI or HSE to work on a heating system -even on the gas side. The exception is when you are doing work for gain.


http://www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si1998/98245102.htm#3[/QUOTE]

in itself, IF you are competent, you can work on gas without being corgi registered.
however, it IS illegal to certify a boiler as being installed by a RGI when it is in fact installed by a diy-er. and as we all know, employing someone to commit an offense is an offense as well.
you are at least number 714 in the past 12 months who thought he is clever, but it is very clearcut.
what you have done is illegal, can be prosecuted, both yourself and the cowboy who signed it off.

Hi Bengass.

I am pleased that you have a balanced view on the meaning of the gas regulations that is much the same as my own.

To clarify what I and the commisioning engineer did.

I, 1)brought the water pipes close to the boiler,
2)bolted the boiler to the wall
3) cored the wall for the flue
4)aligned the flue with the boiler, lined up the flue,but did nor fit.

The engineer 1) fitted the water pipes to the boiler
2) fitted the flue to the boiler
3) Brought gas pipe into the house and connected to boiler, teed off for gas cooker point
4) Uncapped the gas supply at the meter(new installation)
5.) Commissioned and brought the boiler into use i.e the dictionary records "commission" to mean " state of being in good working order and ready for operation"; e.g"put the ships into commission";

I now know from posts here that by bolting the boiler to the wall and coreing the wall i may have ventured into what is technically gas work.

I have not claimed that the engineer fitted the boiler or that I have a certificate to this effect.

Dissappointingly, no one who has responded to my original post has directly answered my query about whether if as the manufacturer claims a pressure drop of 0.25 ar over 10hours in boiler isolated from the central heating side is to be expected due to small temperature changes. Do you have any views on this?, if yes please let me have them. ,

I know that there may be leaks in the system pipework, i have already said this, but before I start lifting floorboards all over the house would like to know if there is indeed a problem with the boiler, which might be fully or partially resonsible for the pressure loss.

 

[Softus]

To clarify what I and the commisioning engineer did.

It's clear already.

I now know from posts here that by bolting the boiler to the wall and coreing the wall i may have ventured into what is technically gas work.

But do you know that this isn't the problem?

I have not claimed that the engineer fitted the boiler

But he has.

Dissappointingly, no one who has responded to my original post has directly answered my query about whether if as the manufacturer claims a pressure drop of 0.25 ar over 10hours in boiler isolated from the central heating side is to be expected due to small temperature changes. Do you have any views on this?, if yes please let me have them.

The test you did is completely pointless unless (a) the boiler is cold, and (b) you've tested that the isolating valves are working 100%.

 

[Bambergaspipe]

[The test you did is completely pointless unless (a) the boiler is cold, and (b) you've tested that the isolating valves are working 100%.

Softus is trying to pass himself off as a qualified gas operative. he isn`t so I`d ignore his drivel..

 

[Softus]

For the seven zillionth time, I'm not an RGI, nor have I ever pretended otherwise.

This topic has nothing to do with gas.

 

[KHPb]

Am I the only one that misses Softus?

<You're not otherwise known as 'Cavalier' are you?>

 

[andrekhoury]

intristing problem in ur boiler system sir , well i have few notes on that if u care to read , u checked for leaks and u couldnt find any , if boiler is leaking the water will come to the furnace which means combustion chamber and u will notice water dripping from the burner , usually water pressure drop every 8 hours as ur company said , but it can drop more if u have air in ur system and not enough high mounted air purge devices , i recommend u check ur highest point of ur pipes for air.
first step stop the boiler and stop the circulating pump
check the pressure of ur system then go to the highest point of ur pipes and purge it manually i hope u have ball valve under ur automatic air vents , i cant say ur safety valve or in other word pressure relief valves are leaking but check the outlets , those can be regulated .one similar problem happened to a chilled water system , it was from the make up make sure u have a check valve for the make up cos if pressure was lost ur system pressure will go down

 

[KHPb]

andrehourly chap - the OP was well over a year ago - one suspects you missed the point of my post - admittedly on a 'dead' thread .. but I doubt the OP will be back to acknowldege your reply..

 

[ionlyask]

Thanks for your post andrekhoury; allbeit it is a bit late to be of help to me. It may however be of help to others.
The pressure loss problem got much less after my last post, but returned at the end of April 2010 when I called the manufacturer which quickly sent an engineer. The problem was diagnosed as a faulty pressure vessel. This was replaced, there have been no further problems. Good service from the manufacturer