Bosch Classixx slimline dishwasher thermostat

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12 Sep 2011
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Any body got any advice on how to get at the sensor and actuator inside the heater element - that's where the problem seems to be but I can't see how to replace them.
 
Sensor..actuator???
Tell us what is (or isn't) doing & post the model & E-number engraved on the door lip...
 
Hi,

It is model no SRS53C02GB, though the only indication of that is a paper label that was stuck on the back - there is no metal plate anywhere.

It has stopped heating the water, so looking at previous peoples problems suggests heater element, thermostat or pcb. The element is ok. It is controlled by a microswitch activated by a button that should poke out of a hole in the middle of the element housing. The microswitch is ok, but it is 'normally open' so needs the button to push at it when cold - this it is not doing.

Looking at the spares available for this model, the thermostat is just a sensor, but there is an 'actuator' which looks as if it mates with it and has a button on the end which could be what I can see in the element housing.

The problem is I can't get at the ones in the machine to see what needs replacing. It looks as if you need to remove the heater assembly?

I havn't looked at the pcb yet . . .
 
This dishwasher has an "instantaneous water heater". It has a safety switch at the end where the element terminals are located. The safety switch is pressure operated via a diaphragm. If the circulation motor doesn't build up enough pressure (or there is too little water) the switch won't activate. The diaphragm rarely fails, but if holed it won't switch & activate the heater. On electronically operated models there is a combined thermostat/NTC mounted on top of the water heater. The bi-metal thermostat trips at 85C, it should reset itself. The NTC should measure around 48kohm at 25C, dropping to around 9kohm at 65C. On mechanically operated models the thermostat is housed together with a temperature controller in the same place.
You can be mislead with no-heat issues. Check the matrix, pressure chamber, & transfer hose are clear. Also check the heater wiring, particularly at the flex point at the bottom of the door. In the worst event you could have a defective heater relay on the pcb.
BTW...there are two digits missing on the model number. If your machine is under 10 years old the E-number is laser engraved on the door lip...
 
Hi,

It's all too late now! I fought my way into the heater element housing, to find it was not at all as I was expecting - more like you describe!

By this time I had got the bottom half off, with no chance of getting everything re-assembled - so it is now in the back of the car, waiting to go to the tip. The new one comes on Friday!

Many thanks, but sometimes it all gets a bit much . . .
 
Don't worry, this kind of thing happens all the time. You are not the first person to be defeated by the dreaded "instantaneous water heater" & you certainly won't be the last.
 

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