Bossing lead??

[martyc]

Asked this question in the building forum but not had any luck so said id try here as leadwork and plumbing go together.
Need to boss out a front apron around a small chimney stack..do i need to heat the lead to get it to stretch around the front corners?
Cheers,
Marty.

 

[doitall]

No you don't heat it although it is easier on a warm day.

You don't stretch it round the corner either, you dress it, E<G move the lead from one part of the sheet to where it has to go.

 

[martyc]

Cheers doitall,
On the front apron pic here
http://www.plumbingmatters.co.uk/plumbing_matters_000009.htm
It looks to me like its been stretched on the bottom?
Marty.

 

[ChrisR]

Nooo it's as dia says. If you just stretched it it would be too thin and break.
Bossing lead requires some teaching, and skill. Lead is moved from a large area to where you need it, so the thinning is minimal.

 

[martyc]

Cheers Guys how about cutting and welding so instead?
And if this is OK....Is it welded with heavy duty solder and a small gas torch?

 

[ChrisR]

No, that just makes dirty great holes! You'd use a tiny burner with lead not solder, and oxyacetylene - and a fair bit of practice.

 

[martyc]

Ta chris!
Right...anyway around this without years of experience???
(i actually have shed loads of experience soldering so maybe ill go with a small burner)

Ive been staring @ chimneys the last couple of days(as you do!!) and i have noticed a lot of them seem to have the lead just lashed on and folded any old way!!

Marty.

 

[doitall]

Lead bashing is perhaps the hardest skill in the plumbing trade to master.

Its brilliant when you can though, I can put a lead coat on anything

If you go the hot flame route, nearly as hard, please remember theres a roof under the heat and roofing felt will go up like guy faulks

 

[bobthebender]

No, that just makes dirty great holes! You'd use a tiny burner with lead not solder, and oxyacetylene - and a fair bit of practice.

OXYACETYLENE chris ?

Oxypropane is what i use/used

 

[martyc]

If i go the hot flame route i have the luxury of being able to do it on the ground before i install it!(so shouldnt be a fire)
So will i get one of those small handheld canisters as a heat source??
Cheers,
MArty.

 

[doitall]

Why not save your money and get an roofer in, one that can do lead that is time you have payed for the torch and wasted a couple of rolls of lead it will be cheaper.

 

[pampers]

Try phoning roofers/leadworkers round your way i know where i used to work we made trays/back gutters /anything to order tell us sizes and pitch and come and pick it up.

 

[martyc]

Cheers Guys,
Doitall i like to give everything a try u see!!...ive built the whole garage myself so far and thats without ever laying a block in my life prior to this.
Foundations blockwork parapet party wall with internal gutter,slated it...I have even moved a window upwards a foot on my house to accommodate the roofs pitch

However if i realise this leadwork is beyond me ill let someone else do it...i dont mind buying a torch as it would get a lot of use elsewhere ( i rebuild engines from time to time could use one for sweating out tight bearings etc as my heat gun doesnt always cut it)

Pampers thats a good idea..ill look see if anyone does rthese ready made.
Cheers,
Marty.

 

[doitall]

Everything you have listed to date requires little or no skill, just patients and hard work.

Leadwork on the other hand is pure skill and practice.

 

[ChrisR]

patients

Them are the ones you take to casualty when you do it wrong.

A single-canister burner won't do it. I've tried v small mapp gas and couldn't get ot to work but maybe others can.
Never tried oxypropane but if the man says it's ok you could buy a bunch of kit for that. Useful for brazing jobs perhaps too.

Yes you can sometimes fold it and leave ugly but small folds that don't matter. Musn't trap water obviously.
Might be able to use a huge soldering iron, >200W.