Brick terminology help please

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http://www.huwsgray.co.uk/bricks/imperial-reclaim-commom-wirecut-brick-73mm.html
Local to you, they may have others similar.
If building wider wall make it 330mm wide and rather than block use cheaper concrete brick inside,will make it easier to bond together using tiewires.
That's interesting. Thanks. I've just had a look at the concrete blocks and bricks for sizes...
Common Brick Grey
215mm x
100mm x
65mm

Aerated & Dense Blocks
Height215 mm
Length440 mm
Width100 mm

Since they follow similar ratios(that's not the word I want) Im not sure how the concrete bricks make the wall the extra 30mm wider. Are you allowing for mortar in-between the face bricks and the block core?? Or does the twisty bit of the wire sit in a gap? I thought the bricks would be touching the core, running parallel to it.

And do you mean the wire ties will be easier because they will be at the right level without having to bend them up or down? I naïvely thought that there would be 2 rows of bricks for every one row of blocks, so I thought the wires would be at the right height.

Thanks for your input. I know everyone thinks you just get a builder in, but I like to design my constructions before the builder gives his opinion and then I can either see that his idea is much better, be pedantic and have it how I want it, or usually, let him be in charge of strength and solidity while I'm in charge of aesthetics. :)
 
You can't build with no gaps at all,you need a bit of space between brick and fill with mortar, if using 65mm brick 3 course equals 225mm or 1 block but if using reclaimed brick 73/75/80mm the 3 courses will be 30mm higher at least, thats why i suggested concrete common inside ,will be easier to build internal to suit as you go along
 
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Surely for a garden wall you'll just build the 2 skins and infill with a weak concrete incorporating your 250 old bricks broken up a bit and some tie wires to tie it all together. What you save on buying blocks/bricks for the middle can be put towards suitable facing bricks laid the correct way. You can infill the middle yourself when the brickie has gone home and save even more money.
I suspect that when you get a price for the labour that a few hundred more or less for material will fade into insignificance anyway.
 
Will that be strong enough I wonder. I want the wall to withstand the occasional bit of pressure from sheep and sometimes cattle.
 
I'm back! 2½ months later and the job is done. But for whoever asks the same questions as I did...

It turns out that this was the best answer :–

Surely for a garden wall you'll just build the 2 skins and infill with a weak concrete incorporating your 250 old bricks broken up a bit and some tie wires to tie it all together. What you save on buying blocks/bricks for the middle can be put towards suitable facing bricks laid the correct way. You can infill the middle yourself when the brickie has gone home and save even more money.
I suspect that when you get a price for the labour that a few hundred more or less for material will fade into insignificance anyway.

2 skins of beautiful brick (Imperial 2⅝" Reclamation Cheshire.) They are a new handmade brick. A few wire ties. Infilled with a dry mix.

The savings, had i built a 'pig ugly' wall, as referred to earlier by Noseall, would have been minimal.

I love the result. Thanks for all your help.
 
IMG_20190215_115727048.jpg
 
Just interested but have you included anything as a dpc and what finished thickness of wall did you end up with ?
 
Nope, no DPC. The will be soil touching it.
Wall is approx 300mm. With 400mm coping, so 50mm overhang either side.
 

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