Bricking up doorway and fitting window. Photo inside.

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To increase counter space in my kitchen, I've had the idea of removing the back door shown in the photo and bricking up to the level of the window next to it. Then remove both door and window and replace with one big window. I still would have patio doors for access/escape from back of house.

Any tips or advice from you guys at the early stage? I've done some brickwork before but never tackled window frames.

Conveniently, neither side of the wall I'll be building will be visible; the outside will be covered in flashing, and the inside will be hidden by kitchen units and tiles. With this in mind what type of block/brick should I use? And any recommendations for insulation?

Thanks.

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If the external is to be covered with linings, why not just convert or replace with timber the frames that are already there. Properly sized or packed to the inside, then plasterboard to suit...pinenot :)
 
Yeah that's a good idea. I'm right in thinking the current door frame wouldn't be offering any structural support to what's above it?

As for fitting the new window, can I do it myself, or have I got to line the pocket of someone "FENSA certified"? :rolleyes:
 
No the door frame will not be structural, nor will the existing window. As for fitting the window, yes you can do this yourself, what size, style and material are you contemplating using? ...pinenot :)
 
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Well it will be the same height as the existing window, but extend to the end of the door way.

I think I'll go with one big opening window in UPVC.

I'm not gonna come to sell and find some surveyor spotting the window has been replaced and ask for a FENSA certificate am I?
 
FESNA is about heat loss conformity i.e. the window you bye should conform and the person fitting it must be competent, or better still the work itself should be competent. However the wall you fit them in should also come up to heat loss specs. as well as durability against weather and security.
If the rest of the house is PVC by all means fit that otherwise fit same as would be my advice. Make sure the window slap (hole) is both plumb and square measure the diagonals and allow for fitting clearance, gaps can be foamed in to provide that all round draft proofing...pinenot :)
 

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